Why won’t my taycan respond when I connect to wall charger?

[r553]

Have you tried to charge on the other socket?

Sponsored

 

[Deleted member 7215]

Have you tried to charge on the other socket?

Yes I did…no go!

 

[r553]

It is possible the onboard charger has failed.
It would be good to try a destination charger to rule out your home charger as the culprit.

 

[Deleted member 7215]

It is possible the onboard charger has failed.
It would be good to try a destination charger to rule out your home charger as the culprit.

Any thing is possible but I’ve been frustrated using EA chargers by my home so I have been in the habit of using my home charger. I have a buncha recalls and updates according to the dealer so we’ll see how that goes next week.

 

[r553]

Any thing is possible but I’ve been frustrated using EA chargers by my home so I have been in the habit of using my home charger. I have a buncha recalls and updates according to the dealer so we’ll see how that goes next week.

The wrinkle is when you use an EA charger you are charging your car on 800 volts DC and not using the onboard AC charger. The onboard charger is used when you charge at home. It is also used when you plug into a destination charger.

 

[violuma]

The wrinkle is when you use an EA charger you are charging your car on 800 volts DC and not using the onboard AC charger. The onboard charger is used when you charge at home. It is also used when you plug into a destination charger.

I haven't gotten into the details with the service department, and I initially viewed this like you seem to, but when my onboard charger was replaced recently, all of the paperwork and communication said "high voltage charger", not "AC". So now I suspect that there is a "funnel" of some sort in the block diagram, and it might be that there is one single unit that can fail and cause the car to fail to charge from either AC or DC.

 

[whitex]

I haven't gotten into the details with the service department, and I initially viewed this like you seem to, but when my onboard charger was replaced recently, all of the paperwork and communication said "high voltage charger", not "AC". So now I suspect that there is a "funnel" of some sort in the block diagram, and it might be that there is one single unit that can fail and cause the car to fail to charge from either AC or DC.

AC charger is the high voltage charger - it charges the HV Battery from EVSE(AC power). It also is involved in digital communications/handshaking with DCFC, coordinating the needs of the battery to the external charger.

 

[violuma]

AC charger is the high voltage charger - it charges the HV Battery from EVSE(AC power). It also is involved in digital communications/handshaking with DCFC, coordinating the needs of the battery to the external charger.

Seems strange that they would refer to it that way, because there is also a separate onboard DC charger module, right? Mine has the 150kW/400V option there, but I did not choose the AC charger upgrade.

Both of those modules would seem to fit the definition of "high voltage charger".

 

[whitex]

Seems strange that they would refer to it that way, because there is also a separate onboard DC charger module, right? Mine has the 150kW/400V option there, but I did not choose the AC charger upgrade.

Both of those modules would seem to fit the definition of "high voltage charger".

150KW/400V is not a DC charger upgrade. It's just a voltage booster (doubler) upgrade. It only applies when charging from 400V DCFC. It is completely independent from the 19.2KW upgrade for the AC side.

 

[r553]

When you DC charge at a 400 volt station ( like Tesla ) the Voltage converter high-voltage booster (HV booster) Conversion of 400 V to 800 V is active.
When you charge at an AC charging station the
High-voltage charger is active which provides the Conversion of AC input (country-dependent voltage level) to 800 V DC.

The terminology is a bit confusing as there is an additional voltage converter used in the original design to to provide 400 volts for the AC compressor, 48 volts for PDCC and 12 volts for the "starting" battery. The 2025 design got rid of some of the converters in the quest for improved efficiency.

Sponsored