Recent content by or1

Indeed. South Norway GTS ST here, on studless Hakkapellitta R3. Occasionally we get a lot of snow here too, and icy roads are not uncommon. If we can wait out the worst ice days, studless is great. On an arctic trip I would think that studless plus chains for the absolutely worst days will work...

Thanks @W1NGE you have been helpful too. But this OVO info makes me wonder, because my electricity supplier here in Norway, Tibber, says that they are no longer allowed to access Taycans and control charging, because of Porsche policy. UK suppliers may, obviously? Good to know when I press on...

As the culprit for one of those other threads, I think I can comment in this thread too. And it was SergeyIndy who made me understand enough more about how it works to get success in controlling it again. Just as he descibes in quote above. But I can add an anecdote to it. For me, it was...

Basically I will just confirm what has been said by Norwegians above, but add some tidbits. In the ICE age, all cars were taxed heavily, as a kind of luxury item. And we have no car industry, only a few parts producers, mainly based on the aluminum made here because of low electricity costs...

Ideed. Wife's car, also an i4, keeps drive mode setting, so this must be deliberate by BMW. Silly that Porsche can't do this right.

I cannot fully explain why, but I am more comfortable with wife's i4 auto regen, than with my Taycan's auto regen.

This is exactly my view as well. Very few people are able to hold the right pedal at the no-battery-energy-applied-or-gained point, and they (we) are less energy efficient as a result. But great for those who can. An auto-regen setting that more or less magically did what I want when I let the...

Intermittently braking and accelerating is less efficient than just rolling. There is loss to heat in both the regenerating part and the accelerating part. Not a lot of loss, but maybe some 20%. If you can keep the rightfoot pedal at just the point of coasting (when no speed change is due), then...

I read most of the manual two years ago when the car was new. Must admit though that I don't remember all of it. And when the car started behaving what I will call counterintuitively (after having used a few other EVs), I asked here before checking the manual. It was not wise - the manual does...

To try to summarize AC charging then. If there is no active timer (for some future point in time), the car will charge to 100% when the charging cable is kept plugged in. But charging to 100% should be done only when needed for a trip that starts within a short time of reaching the 100%. An...

I still think it is good battery care to avoid 100% in general, and use it only when needed for long trips. This is even mentioned in the manual.

Thanks for the link, but no recalls there either.

VIN search at NHTSA finds the car, but there is no recall for it. Now.

I'll check the VIN, but not sure if cars delivered to Norway are included in these recalls. Could this behaviour even be (part of) the reason why a not insignificant number of batteries fail? If many people inadvertently charge to 100% more often than they should, I mean.

Sure. A couple of kroner/dollars extra is nothing in the grand scheme of things. But routinely having charging go to 100% and having the car stay there for perhaps days until it is used, is not desirable, but harmful. And our BMW i4 does not seem to give us this challenge. So I maintain that...