Taycan Cross Turismo: Buy New vs Buy Certified vs Lease

[IrishCVG]

One last question for anyone with experience leasing Porsche…

Annual miles. The difference in residual going from 10K to 15K per year is about $4K. That is about $104 per month on the lease.

I drive for work and actually do need the 15K per year. Doing the math, I’d probably have about $2700 in excess mileage charge at lease end, a bit less than the residual difference.

I am debating signing for the extra miles for peace of mind. I know it’s cheaper to pay them at the end than to pay for miles up front, but I hate having those added costs to just return a lease.

How does Porsche handle excess mileage if I get into a new Porsche lease? Some car brands will forgive excess miles if you lease another car from them. Since I plan to be Porsche for my next car too, I could take the lower miles knowing it doesn’t matter if they forgive.

Stinks because on prior leases, our car always was worth more at turn in than the payoff, so I have always used my leased cars as trade in. Last time with a VW Atlas, got $7000 check at trade in. Taycan (and all EVs) depreciates so much I don’t think that will be an option.

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[prj]

4S / GTS are identical from powertrain standpoint. So unless you want all the alcantara it comes with, you can just get a 4S and then tune it to be essentially as fast as a stock Turbo S.

 

[whitex]

4S / GTS are identical from powertrain standpoint. So unless you want all the alcantara it comes with, you can just get a 4S and then tune it to be essentially as fast as a stock Turbo S.

Is the 4 and 4S (therefore even Turbo S) the same?

 

[prj]

Is the 4 and 4S (therefore even Turbo S) the same?

No, the Turbo S is not the same, but a tuned 4/4S has 940 PS while the Turbo S has 951 PS stock.
The Turbo S can be tuned to 1080 PS though, and it also has more torque capability on the front motor, so 0-100 it's faster because of better traction.
100-200 a tuned Taycan 4 is exactly as fast as a stock Turbo S when it is using the launch control. When the Turbo S is not using launch control it's not even close.

But of course if you compare tuned vs tuned then the Turbo S is 0.3 seconds faster 100-200. It runs 4.6s, whereas the Taycan 4 runs 4.9s.

 

[Havine]

So I previously ordered a Taycan Cross Turismo back in 2021 but due to supply chain issues it never came in and I had to pivot. After waiting forever pulled the trigger on Q8 eTron. Leased it since it was my first EV. Never leased before and prefer owning.

Still lusting after the Taycan though. I have been saving up with the intention of buying a certified vehicle to save a ton and not stress about depreciation. As I get closer to time to purchase (Audi lease ending), I am having 2nd thoughts. Here are the 3 scenarios. For clarity, I’ll presume $100K certified vehicle compared to $150K new. I also have $80K for down payment.

Option 1
Certified Taycan. I spend $80K leaving savings empty. Still have to finance, about $1K monthly for 24 mo. Then I own it. Normal depreciation so I feel like I got a deal.

Option 2
New Taycan. I spend $80K, finance 4 years and pay $1800 a month. Then I own it. I obviously experience significant depreciation, so I lost for the sake of a new car

Option 3
New Taycan. I spend $20K to lease at 3 years. Lease is $1800 a month. I turn it in in 3 years. But I have $60K left in the bank.

I could also buy new but just put less down and have a higher monthly payment. I was trying to keep the monthly’s similar for the example. If I went with Option 2 and only put $20K down, my monthly would go to $2700 on a 5 year finance.

Any advice? Assume I am not a multimillionaire, but my monthly income is not hurt by any option. I do alright. It’s more the principle of what I am paying for and the mental hurdle of trying to make the best decision when I’m spending stupid money on a car! And honestly, when you're moving large chunks of cash around for big luxury purchases like this, keeping a flexible financial safety net or a quick bridge handy for unexpected cash flow timing issues—like checking out Lendry300 — can give you a little extra peace of mind.

If it were me, I'd go with the certified Taycan. You avoid the biggest hit from depreciation, still end up owning the car, and your financing period is relatively short. To me, that's the best balance between getting the car you really want and making a sensible financial decision.

Personally, I wouldn't empty my savings completely, though. Even if your income easily covers the payments, having little or no cash reserve would make me uncomfortable. I'd probably put a bit less down and keep a healthy emergency fund.

Leasing makes sense if you like having a new car every few years, but if your preference is ownership, I don't see much value in spending that much money and handing the keys back at the end.

 

[69Mach390]

If it were me, I'd go with the certified Taycan. You avoid the biggest hit from depreciation, still end up owning the car, and your financing period is relatively short. To me, that's the best balance between getting the car you really want and making a sensible financial decision.

Personally, I wouldn't empty my savings completely, though. Even if your income easily covers the payments, having little or no cash reserve would make me uncomfortable. I'd probably put a bit less down and keep a healthy emergency fund.

Leasing makes sense if you like having a new car every few years, but if your preference is ownership, I don't see much value in spending that much money and handing the keys back at the end.

I’m not sure how you’re finding these threads, but you’re giving advice to people who made decisions years ago.

 

[prj]

I’m not sure how you’re finding these threads, but you’re giving advice to people who made decisions years ago.

AI bot

 

[69Mach390]

AI bot

Maybe? But joined in 2023 before this recent AI craze and no random links to advertising websites.

Could just be your good old school spam bot.

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