Maybe this is just infant mortality on the rear drive assembly. I have a 22 with 33K on it and everything is smooth to 100+. Hopefully once you get this fixed you will be home free after a few thousand miles to make sure it doesn't reoccur... Good luck!Folks! Recently purchased a '23 Taycan Base with 6k miles on it, my first non-Tesla EV. Drove it for about 1000 miles and it's with the dealership for the past 3 weeks since I complained about humming noise and hard gear shift at 50 mph. It whines as I accelerate (so does the brand new loaner, but no hard gear shift at 50 mph). They are replacing the rear motor now which could take a while. Is anyone else facing this issue or faced? TIA
NOTE:- I have a performance battery plus package, not sure if it would make a difference.
Since your car is a 4WD version it behaves differently as the front motor is there to help the acceleration and thus it can get away with always starting in 2nd.Based on your post I went out to my car and drove around my neighborhood testing this out. I did about 10 reverse to drive transitions in normal mode. I paid as close attention as I could to try and detect a gear shift. The result... you are right, I was wrong.
Now to be fair to myself, I only felt a very minimal blip on a couple of the 10 attempts. The shift was very smooth, but it did happen. Also, the shift seemed to happen right at about 12 MPH.
Thank you for the corrected info.
So in normal mode, the expected behavior is starting in 2nd gear unless transitioning from reverse to drive. In that case the car will start in first gear and shift to 2nd at around 12 MPH unless you are really heavy on the throttle from your standing start.
interesting, my RWD has been at the dealer for 36 days now to have the rear drive unit replacedā¦. Still say there waiting on 2 parts. Just contacted a lawyer to start process the lemon law clause.Update:- So, unfortunately, the car is still with the dealership and that's because after disassembling the entire rear, they found the rear passenger strut was damaged and seems to think that was the root cause behind the noisy transmission. They have ordered the strut from Germany and it would take about 2 weeks to get here.
I have a high pitched noise out of the back at ~50mph in first gear (like yours, it's not present in second gear). I considered whether or not to ask the dealer to fix it, but then considered that every part replacement is also another opportunity to make things worse. I had my door handles replaced twice, because the driver side door handle comfort access touch detection has not been working consistently. After the first replacement which didn't fix it, I was surprised Porsche corporate just suggested doing it again. It still doesn't work consistently, but now I have a rattle somewhere around the door. I don't blame the dealer, since they can only do what Porsche corporate tells them to, and I suspect if I go back saying the handle is still not working, they will just tell me to swap it yet again. Personally I suspect something affecting signal quality, like a bad ECU or perhaps a bent pin somewhere in some harness on whatever bus the handles send their messages on. I wish I had the time to debug it myself, but Porsche does not share their wiring diagrams so it would take extra time for me to reverse engineer it. I am still considering whether to go in for the rattle, as it's annoying me, but I cannot tell if it's coming from the door or the left side of the dash - it's more pronounced when turning right. Need to find a reliable repro, perhaps do a frequency sweep via the onboard audio to see if I can find the resonant frequency causing the rattle, so I have a reliable repro for the shop.I have a humming sound on my 4S that kicks in at around 40MPH (only in first gear) and whines/drones as I accelerate until second gear kicks in. It's not present in second gear. I don't like it, but my dealer says it's normal. Well, the head of the service department, who went on a ride-along with me, says it's normal, but attributed it to heavy regen. I think he doesn't know what he's talking about. I'm going to take it into the other Porsche dealer in town to see what they say.
I am not sure if lemon law applies to pre-owned cars. But, the dealership came back and told me they needed to replace the electric motor as the noise is still there after replacing the strut(which came in real quick from Germany btw). They did tell me that they would be replacing the motor when I first brought it in to them and I asked what did you replace the first time. They said it was a miscommunication on their part and that they only replaced the transmission and it didn't fix it. They also mentioned that Porsche used to send motor and transmission together, but have stopped doing that since and that's why it is being treated separately.interesting, my RWD has been at the dealer for 36 days now to have the rear drive unit replacedā¦. Still say there waiting on 2 parts. Just contacted a lawyer to start process the lemon law clause.
Consider me forewarned, but thank you. I have a ride-along scheduled with the service manager for next Friday. To some degree I just want to get the matter on record with the dealer before deciding what my options might be.I have a high pitched noise out of the back at ~50mph in first gear (like yours, it's not present in second gear). I considered whether or not to ask the dealer to fix it, but then considered that every part replacement is also another opportunity to make things worse. I had my door handles replaced twice, because the driver side door handle comfort access touch detection has not been working consistently. After the first replacement which didn't fix it, I was surprised Porsche corporate just suggested doing it again. It still doesn't work consistently, but now I have a rattle somewhere around the door. I don't blame the dealer, since they can only do what Porsche corporate tells them to, and I suspect if I go back saying the handle is still not working, they will just tell me to swap it yet again. Personally I suspect something affecting signal quality, like a bad ECU or perhaps a bent pin somewhere in some harness on whatever bus the handles send their messages on. I wish I had the time to debug it myself, but Porsche does not share their wiring diagrams so it would take extra time for me to reverse engineer it. I am still considering whether to go in for the rattle, as it's annoying me, but I cannot tell if it's coming from the door or the left side of the dash - it's more pronounced when turning right. Need to find a reliable repro, perhaps do a frequency sweep via the onboard audio to see if I can find the resonant frequency causing the rattle, so I have a reliable repro for the shop.
I guess my point here is, if the car has an issue you're willing to live with (like my whine at 50mph, I just toggle drive mode to shift to 2nd gear if I need to travel at a constant ~50mph), consider that attempting to repair it might or might not repair it, but it also might introduce additional problems (like my rattle, which may or may not have been caused by taking apart the door multiple times, but there is a chance it was).