TSB: Noise Complaints on Loudspeakers - Rattling/Clattering/Whirring - Feb. 19, 2026

[Tooney]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2026/MC-11029197-0001.pdf

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[chun]

Sadly, they are giving no solution for the case in which the speaker is not broken and it is just cladding making noise.

Anybody had the fix it contra cost? How was was it? Did they actually fix it?

I have a rattle in my passenger door that drive me insane.

 

[Voltaire]

I had rattles in both front doors with music playing since the car was new. It drove me nuts too. I think I had the car in to the dealer 3 times about this. The first time was a bust, they couldn't reproduce it. The second time I dropped off the car with a track queued up that caused low-frequency driver in the passenger door to buzz pretty obviously, even at reasonable volumes. They ordered a new driver from Germany. Much time passed, but eventually the new driver made it through customs and arrived at the dealer. They installed it, and things were better, but not completely. There were still rattles in the passenger-side midrange driver - the one just above the armrest - and a particularly annoying one in the driver's door right beside my ear.

Back we went. This time they applied some foam tape to the triangular trim piece at the top of the door just above the latch. This piece does actually seem to have been responsible for the rattle, though I've since added more foam there and occasionally I _still_ get a rattle from there.

Anyway after that, and having scoured this site for all the other accounts here of other owners who have had the same problem, I decided I was going to have to take care of the rest of the rattles myself. I ordered some CLD (constrained layer damper) squares and a few other things from Resonix, took off the door cards, and applied them to the outer door skins and the inner face of the door cards.

I half-expected the door cards to be obviously poorly-made, given how many people have reported problems like this, but I really didn't find that to be the case. They seem very solidly made, and impressively precise too - when you reinstall them it's impressive how well the retaining clips line up with the sheet metal of the door. But they're putting some pretty low frequencies into those door woofers, and the whole door card moves quite a bit at higher volumes.

The CLD squares did make a noticeable difference. For one thing, if you tap on my front doors with a knuckle, the sound is impressively deadened. There _is_ a CLD strip on the outer door skin from the factory, but it's just a 2" wide strip that goes from front to back.

The sound system does sound better. It's still Bose, and I still think it's lackluster, but I only rarely have any buzzes or rattles now. The Meridian system in our other car (a Kia EV6) is much more lively and musical than the Bose.

There are many other threads about this, but if anyone is curious I can post the few pictures I took with the doors taken apart.

 

[SoccerMan94043]

I had rattles in both front doors with music playing since the car was new. It drove me nuts too. I think I had the car in to the dealer 3 times about this. The first time was a bust, they couldn't reproduce it. The second time I dropped off the car with a track queued up that caused low-frequency driver in the passenger door to buzz pretty obviously, even at reasonable volumes. They ordered a new driver from Germany. Much time passed, but eventually the new driver made it through customs and arrived at the dealer. They installed it, and things were better, but not completely. There were still rattles in the passenger-side midrange driver - the one just above the armrest - and a particularly annoying one in the driver's door right beside my ear.

Back we went. This time they applied some foam tape to the triangular trim piece at the top of the door just above the latch. This piece does actually seem to have been responsible for the rattle, though I've since added more foam there and occasionally I _still_ get a rattle from there.

Anyway after that, and having scoured this site for all the other accounts here of other owners who have had the same problem, I decided I was going to have to take care of the rest of the rattles myself. I ordered some CLD (constrained layer damper) squares and a few other things from Resonix, took off the door cards, and applied them to the outer door skins and the inner face of the door cards.

I half-expected the door cards to be obviously poorly-made, given how many people have reported problems like this, but I really didn't find that to be the case. They seem very solidly made, and impressively precise too - when you reinstall them it's impressive how well the retaining clips line up with the sheet metal of the door. But they're putting some pretty low frequencies into those door woofers, and the whole door card moves quite a bit at higher volumes.

The CLD squares did make a noticeable difference. For one thing, if you tap on my front doors with a knuckle, the sound is impressively deadened. There _is_ a CLD strip on the outer door skin from the factory, but it's just a 2" wide strip that goes from front to back.

The sound system does sound better. It's still Bose, and I still think it's lackluster, but I only rarely have any buzzes or rattles now. The Meridian system in our other car (a Kia EV6) is much more lively and musical than the Bose.

There are many other threads about this, but if anyone is curious I can post the few pictures I took with the doors taken apart.

I'd love to see what you did if you can share some pics. I have door rattles in the driver door (reproducible with a tone app) and passenger back door (somewhere) that I'd like to remove.

 

[Voltaire]

I'd love to see what you did if you can share some pics.

Happy to. I also just realized that I forgot to mention one of the things I did. There's another TSB that describes how to handle noise from the Bose midrange driver by adding a trio of 1mm washers. This moves the driver 1mm further back from the grille in the door card, and prevents (hopefully) the driver from contacting the grille and buzzing. I did this on both front doors. It cured the rattle from the passenger-side driver.

Here are some pictures. I didn't take nearly enough of them when I was doing this work.

This is the passenger door with the door card removed. The midrange driver is attached to the door card itself, but the bass driver is there, screwed to the metal of the inner door skin. It's also held in with an RTV-like substance that someone with more knowledge than me might be able to identify. I ended up not removing it, though it would have been helpful to have that hole open while installing the CLD squares. The vaguely kidney-shaped panel in the door center is a plastic seal. You remove it to get to the door's outer skin. The cable passing through that panel is the door latch release cable. The 7 white towers topped with black rubber bumpers around the door are the clips that retain the door card when it's installed. There are also six more clips at the top of the door that grab the top edge of the door card.

This is the view through that central hole in the door after prying out the kidney-shaped lid. The vertical black bar inside the door is the window track guide. The upper pale strip running horizontally across the inside of the outer door skin is the factory CLD. I wondered if this might have been poorly-adhered to the door, but I checked and it was well stuck. I didn't remove it; I just added the CLD squares right over the top of it. The lower horizontal strip is a metal bar. There's a gap between it and the door skin for most of the length, so I put some butyl rope into the gap just in case it was one of the rattles. I don't think it was, but it can't rattle now.

I then spent a couple of hours painstakingly cutting CLD squares to cover the inside of the outer door skin completely, with about a 1" overlap where the squares overlapped. The front and back edges of the door were hard to reach, and then equally hard to reach again to peel the backing paper off the sticky side of the CLD squares. It would have been helpful to have that front speaker hole empty, but I didn't want to break that blue sealing material since I didn't have a replacement for it. The Taycan doors are pretty deep inside, which was helpful. I was able to get the roller tool you use to activate the adhesive into all the corners I needed to, and it came out well.

For some inexplicable reason, I then neglected to photograph the door with the CLD panels installed. In fact the next time I remembered to photograph anything I had already installed the Fiber Mat squares over the CLD squares.

Which looks like this not-very-informative picture. I believe the instructions really call for the fiber mat squares to be installed between the door's inner skin and the door card, but I realized this after I'd stuck the first one to the door, so I just went ahead with it like this. They cause no problems where they are (these doors really are deep), and probably still accomplish something acoustically.

On to the door cards. This is what they look like before:

It's flipped around; the bottom of the picture is the top of the door card. You can see the black hooks that grab those clips on the door when it's installed; the midrange driver in the center of the door; and the door handle and window controls at bottom center.

I added some butyl rope to some of the joints between door materials just in case, and then CLD squares to cover the large areas, avoiding anything that might need to be accessed for service. The result looked like this after rollering:

That's pretty much it. I did use some decoupling tape - just a very light foam tape - along the top edge of the door card where those clips on the door grab it, and there's a very light foam gasket that adheres to the outer edge of the woofer and contacts the back of the grille it sits behind. No pictures of that, sadly.

This all took me about 3h per door, working slowly. It was worth doing, I only very rarely have door rattles now. I wish it did more to enhance the Bose sound, but it's still Bose, and Bose loves money more than music. Maybe one of these days I'll tackle replacing the audio components with the Burmeister ones; there's another thread about that somewhere on the forum.

And don't power on the car with the door cards removed. It stores a fault related to the egress warning system, which will then not function until the fault is cleared. I did this work before the MapEV tool was available, and I had to give up and get my dealer to clear that fault.

 

[BjörnfromHamburg]

Some pics would be excellent!

 

[Voltaire]

I found one more picture, from when I did the other door a couple of weeks later. This one shows the gray fiber mat that you'll find inside the door card. I reinstalled this after attaching the CLD squares. There's room for more of this kind of material, but it was back-ordered when I did this work so I didn't add any.

 

[chun]

mine rattles from what I assume is one of these door cards cables being loose.

The rattle is in such a specific spot, that touching it slightly with a finger stops it It’s from that tiny metal insert stripe on the door card.

Google image, I take credit only for the art.

I’ve read about others having this specific rattle, but never how it was fixed

I guess I will just have to take down the door card once my public parking hits above 5 degrees temps

I hate this so much in a 240k car And I would bet my ass a dealership would say they need to replace the whole cars for this… of course, out of my pocket.

 

[SoccerMan94043]

Happy to. I also just realized that I forgot to mention one of the things I did. There's another TSB that describes how to handle noise from the Bose midrange driver by adding a trio of 1mm washers. This moves the driver 1mm further back from the grille in the door card, and prevents (hopefully) the driver from contacting the grille and buzzing. I did this on both front doors. It cured the rattle from the passenger-side driver.

Here are some pictures. I didn't take nearly enough of them when I was doing this work.

This is the passenger door with the door card removed. The midrange driver is attached to the door card itself, but the bass driver is there, screwed to the metal of the inner door skin. It's also held in with an RTV-like substance that someone with more knowledge than me might be able to identify. I ended up not removing it, though it would have been helpful to have that hole open while installing the CLD squares. The vaguely kidney-shaped panel in the door center is a plastic seal. You remove it to get to the door's outer skin. The cable passing through that panel is the door latch release cable. The 7 white towers topped with black rubber bumpers around the door are the clips that retain the door card when it's installed. There are also six more clips at the top of the door that grab the top edge of the door card.

This is the view through that central hole in the door after prying out the kidney-shaped lid. The vertical black bar inside the door is the window track guide. The upper pale strip running horizontally across the inside of the outer door skin is the factory CLD. I wondered if this might have been poorly-adhered to the door, but I checked and it was well stuck. I didn't remove it; I just added the CLD squares right over the top of it. The lower horizontal strip is a metal bar. There's a gap between it and the door skin for most of the length, so I put some butyl rope into the gap just in case it was one of the rattles. I don't think it was, but it can't rattle now.

I then spent a couple of hours painstakingly cutting CLD squares to cover the inside of the outer door skin completely, with about a 1" overlap where the squares overlapped. The front and back edges of the door were hard to reach, and then equally hard to reach again to peel the backing paper off the sticky side of the CLD squares. It would have been helpful to have that front speaker hole empty, but I didn't want to break that blue sealing material since I didn't have a replacement for it. The Taycan doors are pretty deep inside, which was helpful. I was able to get the roller tool you use to activate the adhesive into all the corners I needed to, and it came out well.

For some inexplicable reason, I then neglected to photograph the door with the CLD panels installed. In fact the next time I remembered to photograph anything I had already installed the Fiber Mat squares over the CLD squares.

Which looks like this not-very-informative picture. I believe the instructions really call for the fiber mat squares to be installed between the door's inner skin and the door card, but I realized this after I'd stuck the first one to the door, so I just went ahead with it like this. They cause no problems where they are (these doors really are deep), and probably still accomplish something acoustically.

On to the door cards. This is what they look like before:

It's flipped around; the bottom of the picture is the top of the door card. You can see the black hooks that grab those clips on the door when it's installed; the midrange driver in the center of the door; and the door handle and window controls at bottom center.

I added some butyl rope to some of the joints between door materials just in case, and then CLD squares to cover the large areas, avoiding anything that might need to be accessed for service. The result looked like this after rollering:

That's pretty much it. I did use some decoupling tape - just a very light foam tape - along the top edge of the door card where those clips on the door grab it, and there's a very light foam gasket that adheres to the outer edge of the woofer and contacts the back of the grille it sits behind. No pictures of that, sadly.

This all took me about 3h per door, working slowly. It was worth doing, I only very rarely have door rattles now. I wish it did more to enhance the Bose sound, but it's still Bose, and Bose loves money more than music. Maybe one of these days I'll tackle replacing the audio components with the Burmeister ones; there's another thread about that somewhere on the forum.

And don't power on the car with the door cards removed. It stores a fault related to the egress warning system, which will then not function until the fault is cleared. I did this work before the MapEV tool was available, and I had to give up and get my dealer to clear that fault.

Thats impressive and intimidating

I think I'm going to try taking it to Porsche service first and see what they do. Plus I saw that hack to add a few plastic washers between the door card and the door in a different thread that looks easy enough to try first.

 

[BjörnfromHamburg]

The rattle is in such a specific spot, that touching it slightly with a finger stops it It’s from that tiny metal insert stripe on the door card.

Google image, I take credit only for the art.

I’ve read about others having this specific rattle, but never how it was fixed

At my passenger door-card, it's the carbon inlay underneath, that rattles.
Put a finger on it, and the rattling stops.

 

[SoccerMan94043]

At my passenger door-card, it's the carbon inlay underneath, that rattles.
Put a finger on it, and the rattling stops.

I can put pressure on my driver's door in a number of places to stop the rattle... not sure exactly what is causing it though.

 

[Olivier_BE]

I’ve had a 2021 Taycan 4 Cross Turismo since last week, and I’ve noticed something quite odd. At certain times—sometimes throughout an entire drive—the low-frequency speaker in the driver’s door seems to malfunction. It sounds as if the cone is rubbing or hitting something internally. However, this evening I was able to play music at a high volume without any issues at all.


Based on your feedback, it seems that upgrading the mounting rings and adding additional sound deadening could significantly improve the situation. I’m planning to move forward with this.


Could you advise on the correct way to remove the door panel without causing any damage?


Also, could you share a link to the sound deadening material you used? I’d like to order it in advance.

 

[Voltaire]

There are some good videos on removing Taycan door panels. Here's one I found helpful. Most of them gloss over the exact locations of the two Torx bolts you have to remove. They're both T20s if I remember right. Here's another video that shows their locations more clearly. One thing they don't cover that's probably obvious to people who work on modern cars for a living: make sure the car is off and the key is far away or disabled before you start disconnecting things. If the car wakes up while the door cards are removed it will store a fault that will disable the egress warning system until it's cleared. I learned my lesson the hard way on the first door card, and did the second one with the 12V battery disconnected.

That first plastic panel at the back of the door requires some force to pop its clips loose. I'd suggest a plastic tool, prying with a screwdriver is liable to leave a mark. The second bolt is behind a plastic trim piece covered by the door handle. If you press on the end of the trim piece with your finger it will pivot and you can remove it easily.

Once you have the bolts removed, lift the door card from the bottom, not the door handles, and lift straight up. This too requires some force, but I didn't resort to tapping. Once the card slides off the clips you have to disconnect the door cable and some wiring harnesses. A pick tool is useful here for releasing the levers that hold the electrical connectors in place.

The big plastic cover in the middle of the door that the cable goes through can be pried out with your fingers.

Having done it a couple of times, I would say that removing the door cards is an easy task, but the first time you do it it will test your nerves. Go slow, and take pictures.

When you put the doors back together you will need to reset the power windows, because they will forget their limits while disconnected and only operate in slow mode. The procedure for doing this is in the owners manual.

As for the material I used: I got a kit from Resonix with materials for 2 doors. They also have some very helpful videos showing the whole process of installing their kit. Definitely watch that first. One of the hardest parts of the job was getting the CLD squares in place at the front and back edges of the outer door skins. You don't want to cut the squares any smaller than you have to to make them fit, so you end up having to maneuver some large squares into some tight spots, then peel the backing off and stick them to the car. The adhesive on those squares is very aggressive, so peeling the backing off first is likely to end in tears as they will grab hold of something while you're trying to slide them into place, and then they won't let go. Maneuver first, then peel. Removing the low-range driver would make the front part of the door easier to treat, but as I mentioned I didn't do that, and I think you'll have to cut the blue adhesive around the driver to liberate it from the door.

There are other makers of this stuff, and Resonix is definitely not the bargain brand. I will say I found their materials to be high quality, but the same may well be true of other brands.

One of the satisfying parts of this job is that when you finish a door and tap on it from the outside with a knuckle it sounds absolutely dead compared to the untreated door.

If you're taking the door apart anyway, I'd add the 1mm washers to the mid-range driver just in case. You probably also want to have a careful look at the grill area for the bass driver if you're getting buzzing. Maybe something is obviously loose there.

Hope it helps!

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