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To further clarify what @Reg said, the theory (and it's just that - a theory) is that changing the active timer and/or profile while connected to the charger is a possible cause of 12V death (prior to WMA5/WMA6 updates). I don't believe there is any evidence that any other use of the Connect...

If this is a bug and/or if this violates some US law, well now that OTA updates are working so this may get "fixed" for US drivers...

Other than the RPM limit for the rear motor, there isn't a fixed point at which the transmission must shift from 1st to 2nd. I'm guessing the transmission is adapting the shift point vs. acceleration based on learned driving style. Porsche does this with other transmissions. The update may have...

Thing is, many home routers still present configuration options based on class A/B/C. Those that allow you to pick an arbitrary CIDR address for your home network usually are smart enough to enforce that you pick an address reserved for private networks. Anyway, I'd bet you are spot on that...

I'm using class B at home and it works fine. Good find!

I think the top car is a Huracan - it's about 3 ft. tall.

I don't know about the greater battery use resulting in losing 10-20 miles of range, but it definitely uses energy so there would have to be some range lost. That said, as others have mentioned I believe it's well worth it, even for daily driving, just to control the body roll. For all drives...

Yup. Think about the utility service required to deliver 270 kW! Electrify America Adds Tesla Battery Storage To More Than 100 New Charging Stations - Electrify America NEWSROOM

As Dee said, almost certainly a corrupt OTA module. Take it to the dealer and insist they check the state of the module. Advise them to check bulletin 2017. The fault condition is U110100; “Component protection active”.

2021 has the feature, not 2020. At least not yet.

Check the USB connection. If the cable or ports go bad such that the data connection is bad (but the power still works) your iPhone will charge but CarPlay won't work.

Once you disable PLC in the newer PMCC (in two different places - you will need to log in as the service user or "tech" user to do the second one), the connection to the car is faster. You can disable the power-saving sleep if you want and that will also speed things up.

FWIW I have been on a TOU rate plan since first getting the Model S in 2012. Our electricity bill went DOWN with the TOU plan despite adding charging the Tesla. Consider your highest power appliances - EV, electric clothes dryer, electric ovens, electric heat or heat pump or AC, hot tub, etc...

The car will use as much regen as it can for deceleration regardless of the button setting (which gives you the same options as the menu - though someone in another post said holding the button on the steering wheel might give you more options than just on vs. auto - could be a MY20 vs. MY21...

I'm all for involving your dealer if you have time - they will bill Porsche for it and this problem gets more expensive by one more car. That said, since the process to wake up the car is described in the Porsche-published Good to Know manual, how can following their procedure void the warranty...

I'm guessing this is a communications issue between the PCM and the instrument cluster. Turning the car off and locking it for 15 minutes may resolve this, though I'm guessing you have tried that already. 12V disconnect might also solve it, but might cause other issues (minimize the risk by...

Tested this out today and unfortunately I did not remember it correctly. The fixed button sets the height to maximum if the speed is low enough, and does nothing but generate a warning on the instrument cluster otherwise.

Yes but IIRC (which is questionable) it will raise the car to the highest setting allowed at your present speed.

Outstanding example of a garage too

FWIW, since there is already a button on the instrument cluster to control the suspension height, I wouldn't waste the only programmable steering wheel button on suspension height.