Ok, you win. There comes a point when any beta product matures into an alpha product. Going by the silence on this thread, perhaps the Taycan is now there.
The Taycan is now 8 years old, I believe. That is, there is a generation of cars out there which actually come off the end of their battery warranty. I also don't care which warranty the claims come under. The impression I get from the silence on this thread is that the Taycan is a very solid...
Inspired by this thread, I just changed mine on MY22 CT. You had better have a small child available for this job. Anyway, the two screws identified in the earlier diagrams have been superseded by clips. The whole awkward assembly detaches without tools (once you pulled the two pins back).
Of course. And as this thread stands, Porsche are making a lot of money (from selling warranties). Let me remind posters who don't wanna page back to the OP that I am not asking your counsel re warranty. Please post only your successful warranty repairs of the past.
Thank you again.
I had never expected this thread to be so slow. Given the frequent admonitions "you must buy warranty", I had expected a slew of reports of warranty claims. Instead, the silence here suggests the Taycan is rock-solid.
When mine refused to communicate, I found these flags to be utterly unreliable indicators. After each of five resets of the PCM, they would variously come on (or not) without that restoring any connectivity. It all came back instantly after I disconnected (and reconnected) the 12v battery.
(I...
Consider me shocked. 1) an air spring is a wear and tear item which I would never expect a warranty to cover (unless perhaps it leaked within a few 1000 miles). 2) I used to pay £300 per side on my BMW5 just for the spring; fitted it was easily under £1000. Now, the Taycan has 4 and I have...
I had a chat w ChatGBT. More informative than the manual. The trick is apparently the supply cable to the PCM. It is not so much a question of pin-out - that's too old school. Instead, each cable you buy from Porsche has some coding inside it - probably just a resistor - that indicates to...
I bite. Regen is clearly not efficient when it isn't needed. And a genuine need becomes apparent soon enough - when the driver hits the brakes. At which point the Taycan applies regen anyway. So, strictly, the regen option for the throttle isn't required. Porsche adds the option for people -...
But when you press the brake on a Taycan, regen is the first thing that happens - long before the brake callipers bite. The slope would have to be very steep to overpower the regeneration.
I was not planning to extend the warranty on my 2021 Taycan. It is expensive and it seems to me that the "wear and tear" carve-out will become more relevant with the passage of time. Then again, repairing that thing is also expensive and there are voices here admonishing me not to own a Taycan...
RTFM indeed. It was my reading of the technical spec in that manual which put me right off that thing. (My circuit cannot support neither 7.4kW nor 11kW - not even when throttled to 50%.) Upon re-reading it carefully, there is however a short passage "Charge current limiting" which explains...
Thanks. I do not have 80% as an option. Manual says 50% or 100%. One apparently rotates thru the options by pressing a single button.
Of course. The car will charge for 50hrs straight at 2kW :) Which is what motivated me to chip into this thread in the first place. I see no point in...
On the PMC side, do these different cables all have different pin-outs? I mean 110V v 220V is no biggie at all, so would not require different pin-outs. I assume that your 110V circuits are fused higher (than our 240V circuits). Perhaps your standard is 30A (where ours is 15A).
I am not aware...
Hm ... Stop reading is a lot cheaper :) My original warranty has lapsed but I figured the biggest worry was the battery which is still covered. Most of the issues seem to center on software and updates arrive every so often. But, yes, reading here makes for sleepless nights. One is inclined...
I think I read you alright. You used 3-pin initially without a sparky. Do you perhaps recall what the BMS reported as the power draw on the centre console?
I don't know how to reply charitably. Put a 3A fuse into your kettle and see how long it survives or whether the kettle will somehow spontaneously limit its power draw to 3A. But I suppose that I learn from your casual responses that you never thought about any of this, just went ahead using...