Sorry, if not clear. Would def remove and swop back to original when done. Just checking I’m using all the original wiring so they’d be no spare plugs on the heated wheel that may effect anything?
Ah, I see...
It will physically fit, but not sure the buttons are the same.
In the second pic you have a track skip button instead of the Taycan's regen, and the mode dial has a push-to-pass button which the J1.I Taycan does not. This wheel also has PDK paddles which again are meaningless for a Taycan.Thankyou, they look identical?
I could swap the buttons over. I have a leather steering wheel, thats not mine (Alcantara one in.photo) but one from a Taycan
Thanks, good spot!
err, no
The thing which put me off doing this was removing the plastic cover on the back of the wheel - there are a couple of screws but it's mostly held on by hidden clips which are likely to break.
Yeah seen a few videos. Thanks for guidance ??The thing which put me off doing this was removing the plastic cover on the back of the wheel - there are a couple of screws but it's mostly held on by hidden clips which are likely to break.
Good luck, though
Thats a fabulous write up, thankyou.OK, details - sorry for the delay...
1) Start by unlocking your car, opening the driver's door and taking the key a long way away (or turn it off: long press of both lock and unlock simultaneously). Leave the car for 20-30 minutes, with the driver's door open, to go to sleep - this is to ensure the airbag isn't live and no errors get triggered when you remove it. An alternative might be to remove the negative strap from the 12V battery but I didn't try this. After the wait return to the car - without your key so you don't wake it up.
2) Insert a long/thin tool into the little holes behind the wheel spokes, around 4 and 8 o'clock positions - I find a 3 or 4mm allen key with a flat end ideal. You need to feel for the spring rods which hold the airbag and press them to release it - you can work one side then the other. In the photo here your tool will follow the red arrow line and you're pushing against the rod circled in blue:
3) Once the airbag is free gently pull it away from the wheel to expose the wires - there are 2 clips on the back: release them both by prising the orange tabs up using a small, flat screwdriver and pulling them off. Put the airbag somewhere safe.
This is what you'll see inside:
4) Before removing the wheel: prise the green tab of the large yellow connector up and pull the connector out - there are several cables so it won't come very far but make sure it clears the pins underneath. If you have wheel heating you'll also have the red plug shown above - releae this too. Failure to remove both these connectors before removing the wheel from the car will leave you in a world of pain as you'll likely destroy the clock spring underneath.
5) I don't have photos of the wheel fitted to the car but it's secured to the steering column using a triple-square bolt - I don't remember the size but it's one of these: US PRO 5 Piece 1/2'' Drive Spline Triple Square Bit Sockets M10 - M18 2076 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools - you'll need quite a long driver. Remove the bolt from the centre of the wheel. Before removing the wheel from the car note the position - there is a mark on the wheel next to the splines and should be a corresponding one on the column itself:
Gently pull the wheel away from the steering column. I suggest you move to a bench.
6) Remove the 4 screws shown here in blue using a T25 torx bit:
Note that there are springs under each screw below the plate - be careful not to lose them. Remove the plate, taking care to remove the spade connector circled in red.
This is what you'll see now:
Note the springs as previously mentioned. Carefully remove the springs and metal plate below - noting the second brown wire and spade connector (these relate to the horn press).
Now you'll see this:
What's of interest here are the two little boxes - circled in red and yellow in the photo above, though my wheel didn't have the one circled in yellow at all. These take the connections from the wheel buttons, mode dial and heater switch and then connect back to the car through the big yellow connector and the clock spring behind the wheel.
7) To prevent the need for any coding what I did was transplant the little box(es) and main wiring harness (with yellow connector and airbag connectors) from my existing wheel into the new wheel, carefully removing the tiny connectors for the buttons, etc. and pluging them back into the replacement box.
The box circled in red is secured from behind by a single silver screw:Remove the screw first and free the box from the wheel, then work round the various connectors. I'd recommend taking photos of both the connector and cable positions so you can replace them in the same place - I don't think any connectors are identical so it shouldn't be possible to get them mixed up.
This photo also clearly shows the two connectors connecting the wheel to the clock spring. If you don't have wheel heating you won't have the red/black plug.
8) Carefully replace the various bits in reverse order, ensuring various the cables are neatly routed so they don't impede the horn action or get trapped as you reassemble the wheel. Remember to reattach the two brown cables with spade connectors and the four springs before replacing the larger plate and torx screws. When you get here ensure the silver plate can move when pushed against the springs - it doesn't move far but needs to be free and not trap wires as this is your horn!
9) Your replacement wheel is now ready to go back on the car... remember it's still asleep to prevent any errors while the airbag is missing so keep the key away. Slide the wheel onto the steering column, making sure the marks line up so up is still up. Screw the main bolt back in the middle and plug the big yellow connector (and red heating connector if you have it) back into the clock spring through the wheel. Reattach the two connectors to the airbag module (they're colour coded and keyed so you can't get them mixed up) and gently squeeze the airbag into place on the wheel - you'll feel the anchors on both sides snap to engage and hold it firm; if it doesn't feel secure remove it again and check nothing is interfering, trapped cables, etc.
You should be good to go now - retrieve your key and fire it up! Assuming nothing went wrong there will be no error messages and everything works as before.
Good luck!
Good work, @JonnieB. Could you please take a few pics of the rear plastic cover, showing where the clips are? Thanks ?
