Anyone swapped a steering wheel over?

[JonnieB]

Good work, @JonnieB. Could you please take a few pics of the rear plastic cover, showing where the clips are? Thanks ?

Pictures attached, a few broken but not alot.

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[tophamn]

Pictures attached, a few broken but not alot.

That's great, @JonnieB. Many thanks.

This is the plastic trim from the front of the wheel, right? - is there a Porsche part number on it? I'd be interested to see if they're available and for how much before I break mine .

 

[JonnieB]

I have ordered a CF one, will check for part no

All numbers from that top trim piece attached ??

 

[Skyhawk_Delta]

OK, details - sorry for the delay...

1) Start by unlocking your car, opening the driver's door and taking the key a long way away (or turn it off: long press of both lock and unlock simultaneously). Leave the car for 20-30 minutes, with the driver's door open, to go to sleep - this is to ensure the airbag isn't live and no errors get triggered when you remove it. An alternative might be to remove the negative strap from the 12V battery but I didn't try this. After the wait return to the car - without your key so you don't wake it up.

2) Insert a long/thin tool into the little holes behind the wheel spokes, around 4 and 8 o'clock positions - I find a 3 or 4mm allen key with a flat end ideal. You need to feel for the spring rods which hold the airbag and press them to release it - you can work one side then the other. In the photo here your tool will follow the red arrow line and you're pushing against the rod circled in blue:

3) Once the airbag is free gently pull it away from the wheel to expose the wires - there are 2 clips on the back: release them both by prising the orange tabs up using a small, flat screwdriver and pulling them off. Put the airbag somewhere safe.

This is what you'll see inside:

4) Before removing the wheel: prise the green tab of the large yellow connector up and pull the connector out - there are several cables so it won't come very far but make sure it clears the pins underneath. If you have wheel heating you'll also have the red plug shown above - releae this too. Failure to remove both these connectors before removing the wheel from the car will leave you in a world of pain as you'll likely destroy the clock spring underneath.

5) I don't have photos of the wheel fitted to the car but it's secured to the steering column using a triple-square bolt - I don't remember the size but it's one of these: US PRO 5 Piece 1/2'' Drive Spline Triple Square Bit Sockets M10 - M18 2076 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools - you'll need quite a long driver. Remove the bolt from the centre of the wheel. Before removing the wheel from the car note the position - there is a mark on the wheel next to the splines and should be a corresponding one on the column itself:

Gently pull the wheel away from the steering column. I suggest you move to a bench.

6) Remove the 4 screws shown here in blue using a T25 torx bit:

Note that there are springs under each screw below the plate - be careful not to lose them. Remove the plate, taking care to remove the spade connector circled in red.

This is what you'll see now:

Note the springs as previously mentioned. Carefully remove the springs and metal plate below - noting the second brown wire and spade connector (these relate to the horn press).

Now you'll see this:

What's of interest here are the two little boxes - circled in red and yellow in the photo above, though my wheel didn't have the one circled in yellow at all. These take the connections from the wheel buttons, mode dial and heater switch and then connect back to the car through the big yellow connector and the clock spring behind the wheel.

7) To prevent the need for any coding what I did was transplant the little box(es) and main wiring harness (with yellow connector and airbag connectors) from my existing wheel into the new wheel, carefully removing the tiny connectors for the buttons, etc. and pluging them back into the replacement box.

The box circled in red is secured from behind by a single silver screw:

Remove the screw first and free the box from the wheel, then work round the various connectors. I'd recommend taking photos of both the connector and cable positions so you can replace them in the same place - I don't think any connectors are identical so it shouldn't be possible to get them mixed up.

This photo also clearly shows the two connectors connecting the wheel to the clock spring. If you don't have wheel heating you won't have the red/black plug.

8) Carefully replace the various bits in reverse order, ensuring various the cables are neatly routed so they don't impede the horn action or get trapped as you reassemble the wheel. Remember to reattach the two brown cables with spade connectors and the four springs before replacing the larger plate and torx screws. When you get here ensure the silver plate can move when pushed against the springs - it doesn't move far but needs to be free and not trap wires as this is your horn!

9) Your replacement wheel is now ready to go back on the car... remember it's still asleep to prevent any errors while the airbag is missing so keep the key away. Slide the wheel onto the steering column, making sure the marks line up so up is still up. Screw the main bolt back in the middle and plug the big yellow connector (and red heating connector if you have it) back into the clock spring through the wheel. Reattach the two connectors to the airbag module (they're colour coded and keyed so you can't get them mixed up) and gently squeeze the airbag into place on the wheel - you'll feel the anchors on both sides snap to engage and hold it firm; if it doesn't feel secure remove it again and check nothing is interfering, trapped cables, etc.

You should be good to go now - retrieve your key and fire it up! Assuming nothing went wrong there will be no error messages and everything works as before.

Good luck!

Wish I had found this thread earlier. Carismo made a custom steering wheel and they had me remove my old one to send in and have them retrofit the buttons. Seemed easy enough from the YouTube video they shared with me, however there was no mention of the heating element clip or any disclaimer about the importance of disconnecting the upper pins prior to removing the steering wheel. I toasted my clock spring. Now I need to find a reputable one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Anyone got a source for one that works with a heated steering wheel?

 

[tophamn]

Wish I had found this thread earlier. Carismo made a custom steering wheel and they had me remove my old one to send in and have them retrofit the buttons. Seemed easy enough from the YouTube video they shared with me, however there was no mention of the heating element clip or any disclaimer about the importance of disconnecting the upper pins prior to removing the steering wheel. I toasted my clock spring. Now I need to find a reputable one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Anyone got a source for one that works with a heated steering wheel?

Eep! - not nice.

If you're very careful you can remove the front of the clock spring from the back of the wheel and carefully put it back together, winding the ribbon cable round as you go. You need to ensure you don't twist the front relative to the back so you have the same number of turns as when it came apart. You also need to pray that the car doesn't realise it's been off because then you need to recalibrate the steering wheel position sensor which requires a PIWIS!

What's the Porsche part number for the clock spring you have? - I think they're common across many models so you might find one by searching the part number - they come up on eBay. Note that if you do change the clock spring you'll definitely need to recalibrate the steering position sensor - the car will complain about lots of things not working until you do.

 

[Skyhawk_Delta]

Eep! - not nice.

If you're very careful you can remove the front of the clock spring from the back of the wheel and carefully put it back together, winding the ribbon cable round as you go. You need to ensure you don't twist the front relative to the back so you have the same number of turns as when it came apart. You also need to pray that the car doesn't realise it's been off because then you need to recalibrate the steering wheel position sensor which requires a PIWIS!

What's the Porsche part number for the clock spring you have? - I think they're common across many models so you might find one by searching the part number - they come up on eBay. Note that if you do change the clock spring you'll definitely need to recalibrate the steering position sensor - the car will complain about lots of things not working until you do.

A quick phone call to my local Porsche dealership answered all of the questions. This is a rare issue indeed, as the clock spring unit itself is not available for purchase, unlike most vehicles. It is sold as a complete assembled steering assembly, including the wipers, turn signals, and cruise control lever. They quoted $1450 for that part alone however, I have found a used one for $280 on eBay. They quoted $1k to install it, including calibration (required if installing a new clock spring) or if I am able to install the new one myself, the calibration is roughly $250. So best case scenario I buy the used assembly and install it myself, then have them calibrate to remove any error codes.

The annoying thing is that the clock spring unit can clearly be detached and installed separately from one assembly to another, but it isn't listed as a separate Porsche part. This is impractical and price gouging at its finest.

In the meantime, I'm going to see if I can't rewind this sucker and reinstall, which would potentially mean I spend $0 and just learn a valuable lesson on steering wheel removal and the fragility of the Taycan clock spring.

 

[JonnieB]

That's great, @JonnieB. Many thanks.

This is the plastic trim from the front of the wheel, right? - is there a Porsche part number on it? I'd be interested to see if they're available and for how much before I break mine .

I wonder whether I should swap both the left switch, but also the module so the car thinks its the same steering wheel?

 

[tophamn]

I wonder whether I should swap both the left switch, but also the module so the car thinks its the same steering wheel?

I didn't change the buttons (my donor wheel was from a Taycan too) but I did swap all the gubbins in the wheel: modules and main harness - exactly as you say: so the car thinks it's the same wheel.

 

[JonnieB]

I didn't change the buttons (my donor wheel was from a Taycan too) but I did swap all the gubbins in the wheel: modules and main harness - exactly as you say: so the car thinks it's the same wheel.

Great, thankyou ??

 

[Skyhawk_Delta]

Eep! - not nice.

If you're very careful you can remove the front of the clock spring from the back of the wheel and carefully put it back together, winding the ribbon cable round as you go. You need to ensure you don't twist the front relative to the back so you have the same number of turns as when it came apart. You also need to pray that the car doesn't realise it's been off because then you need to recalibrate the steering wheel position sensor which requires a PIWIS!

What's the Porsche part number for the clock spring you have? - I think they're common across many models so you might find one by searching the part number - they come up on eBay. Note that if you do change the clock spring you'll definitely need to recalibrate the steering position sensor - the car will complain about lots of things not working until you do.

Dude!!! I was able to do exactly what you said. Was a little tricky to figure out at first how it winded back in, but I successfully replaced the clock spring cover (one small plastic clip had broken off but hasn't been an issue at all since I installed the new steering wheel) and drives like a dream! No calibration required, except I had to clear the airbag code using a touchscreen diagnostic/scanner. The one I used was a friend's that was a bit older, 2017, so it didn't have the Taycan listed. So we used the Panamera settings and was able to successfully clear the airbag code! I will say, my first attempt at installing the steering wheel was slightly off axis, so it's a good idea to drive the car a little to ensure it's put exactly at the correct location, before clearing the airbag code, otherwise you'll keep getting the code everytime you remove the airbag to adjust the steering wheel.

 

[JonnieB]

Dude!!! I was able to do exactly what you said. Was a little tricky to figure out at first how it winded back in, but I successfully replaced the clock spring cover (one small plastic clip had broken off but hasn't been an issue at all since I installed the new steering wheel) and drives like a dream! No calibration required, except I had to clear the airbag code using a touchscreen diagnostic/scanner. The one I used was a friend's that was a bit older, 2017, so it didn't have the Taycan listed. So we used the Panamera settings and was able to successfully clear the airbag code! I will say, my first attempt at installing the steering wheel was slightly off axis, so it's a good idea to drive the car a little to ensure it's put exactly at the correct location, before clearing the airbag code, otherwise you'll keep getting the code everytime you remove the airbag to adjust the steering wheel.

Looks fantastic!. I have got my wheel, just not had time or the b@lls to install it yet. Alcantara with CF trim and titanium mode button ?? I've removed the flappy paddles.

 

[derseidel]

I have done this - actually switching a race-tex wheel for a leather one on a 2023 GTS. It's easy and doesn't require coding.

I'll post further details later - I still have the original wheel so can add photos.

Hi everyone, I just did a very similar change and swapped the Race-Tex steering wheel of my 2023 GTS with a leather one of a 2021 Taycan. As far as I'm aware, both have a similar setup: heated, both drive mode dial.
After the change, I have an active error message that "active lane keep assist has a malfunction and service is required".
Is there any hardware in the steering wheel, that the new (but older) wheel is potentially not equipped with or is this most likely a codung issue?
Can I fix this issue by transplanting all the inner parts as mentioned by @tophamn?

 

[tophamn]

Hi everyone, I just did a very similar change and swapped the Race-Tex steering wheel of my 2023 GTS with a leather one of a 2021 Taycan. As far as I'm awarem both similar setuo: heated, both drive mode dial.
After the change, I have an active error message that "active lane keep assist has a malfunction and service is required".
Is there any hardware in the steering wheel, that the new (but older) wheel is potentially not equipped with or is this most likely a codung issue?
Can I fix this issue by transplanting all the inner parts as mentioned by @tophamn?

I had similar problems with error codes which I concluded was probably due to either VIN pairing or the donor car not having exactly the same spec as mine. Transplanting the wiring and modules from the old to the new wheel solved them all.

 

[derseidel]

I had similar problems with error codes which I concluded was probably due to either VIN pairing or the donor car not having exactly the same spec as mine. Transplanting the wiring and modules from the old to the new wheel solved them all.

Thanks @tophamn - this was the solution, changed the original steering wheel back again, this message was gone. Now I'm a little unsure which wheel to use - the Race-Tex one is not bad at all.

 

[JonnieB]

Thanks @tophamn - this was the solution, changed the original steering wheel back again, this message was gone. Now I'm a little unsure which wheel to use - the Race-Tex one is not bad at all.

Did you swap your module over to the new steering wheel?

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