New Charger-related recall (for the 240 V cable) (NHTSA ID 23V-841)

[whitex]

is the cable gauge any thicker? or will it still overheat but now interrupt your charging session when the cable gets too hot?

That was the first thing I was wondering too. Unfortunately the cable is short so chances of getting the gauge labels are not 100%. All I can see is this:

However, given that the new cable is the same size, while possibly having 2 more conductors (the 2 extra signal pins wired up, can't be sure if previous wire didn't already have those conductors in the past just not wired up though), I would venture to guess the wire gauges are the same as before, only a temperature sensor was added. Here is a picture of new vs. old (new Audi cable on top, old Porsche on the bottom):

I measured the diameter of the cable, it's 16mm for both. It's possible they made the insulation thinner or the signaling conductors thinner while going up in size for power, but I doubt it.

So it seems they will still heat up, but something will happen when a temperature rises above some threshold. Not sure what that something will be, either a current throttle or charge cycle abort. Too many other things to do lately to setup an experiment at this time.

 

[800v]

I would venture to guess the wire gauges are the same as before, only a temperature sensor was added. ..

Yikes! I really hope this is not the case. For Porsche that would be not something that I would expect from the brand, and very disappointing hope they did better ..

(for example by also sending power over the signal cables to reduce the load on the main one. (The J+ booster for example uses multiple thinner wires to be more flexible than one big one))

 

[whitex]

Yikes! I really hope this is not the case. For Porsche that would be not something that I would expect from the brand, and very disappointing hope they did better ..

I sincerely doubt Porsche will have a different solution that Audi.

(for example by also sending power over the signal cables to reduce the load on the main one. (The J÷ booster for example uses multiple thinner wires to be more flexible than one big one))

[/QUOTE]
Not over actual signaling wires - they are too small for it to be worth while (too much insulation vs. conductor material). This is done sometimes to make the cable more flexible, use two conductors instead of one, but you’d have to use dozens of signaling AWG22’s for example.

 

[daveo4EV]

That was the first thing I was wondering too. Unfortunately the cable is short so chances of getting the gauge labels are not 100%. All I can see is this:

However, given that the new cable is the same size, while possibly having 2 more conductors (the 2 extra signal pins wired up, can't be sure if previous wire didn't already have those conductors in the past just not wired up though), I would venture to guess the wire gauges are the same as before, only a temperature sensor was added. Here is a picture of new vs. old (new Audi cable on top, old Porsche on the bottom):

I measured the diameter of the cable, it's 16mm for both. It's possible they made the insulation thinner or the signaling conductors thinner while going up in size for power, but I doubt it.

So it seems they will still heat up, but something will happen when a temperature rises above some threshold. Not sure what that something will be, either a current throttle or charge cycle abort. Too many other things to do lately to setup an experiment at this time.

thank you for the update - this is disappointing but unsurprising - they are still probably shipping 10 gauge wire for the high voltage conductors which will continue to have their high nominal operating temperature - they have "fixed" the problem in that they will probably not run too hot for too long, but they have not addressed the core issue that it doesn't need to run that hot and a simple fix is to move to 8 gauge or 6 gauge wire for a cooler nominal operating temperature.

sad.

 

[whitex]

thank you for the update - this is disappointing but unsurprising - they are still probably shipping 10 gauge wire for the high voltage conductors which will continue to have their high nominal operating temperature - they have "fixed" the problem in that they will probably not run too hot for too long, but they have not addressed the core issue that it doesn't need to run that hot and a simple fix is to move to 8 gauge or 6 gauge wire for a cooler nominal operating temperature.

sad.

Not at all surprising - a minimum cost solution is typically what corporations will do - helps their bottom line (bigger conductors would probably mean more redesign of plugs/connectors, and potentially recertification - not just a little extra copper). The main thing I want to know is what happens then the plug overheats. If the charging just slows down a bit, that's much better than if the charging just stops (and worse, if it doesn't automatically resume after plug cools off).

 

[JIP1080]

Just got mine replaced. 8 gauge is what I'm seeing unless I'm mistaken.

 

[sc68z28]

Just got mine replaced. 8 gauge is what I'm seeing unless I'm mistaken.

Any details on procedure....
Did your dealer need the car in service dept? Or just the EVSE for re-programing?
Was just the cord replaced? Or?
What EVSE do you have? Connect +
---Bill.

 

[JIP1080]

Any details on procedure....
Did your dealer need the car in service dept? Or just the EVSE for re-programing?
Was just the cord replaced? Or?
What EVSE do you have? Connect +
---Bill.

My car was in for the HV Heater replacement already, so technically it was in the shop. I don't know if (or why) taking the car in would be required though. This was for the standard charger, not the connect+. The invoice stated they replaced the cable from the outlet to the charger box and reprogrammed the box. I'm not aware of any action specifically car related for the charger recall.
I'll find a minute tomorrow to plug it in to my 240V / 50A line and see if it gives the full beans or only half the enchilada.

 

[JIP1080]

The charger let me set it to 100%, and the car hit 8.4kW. 240V/50A line. I don't have time at the moment to monitor plug temps so I stopped the charge in order to come back later when I have a bit of time. One factor with temps, however, is I use a 14-50 to 6-50 adapter (originally plumed 240 for the welder and air compressor). I'm unsure how that will impact the connections and heat buildup. I also need to hope the kids didn't run off with my temp gun again .

 

[sc68z28]

The charger let me set it to 100%, and the car hit 8.4kW. 240V/50A line. I don't have time at the moment to monitor plug temps so I stopped the charge in order to come back later when I have a bit of time. One factor with temps, however, is I use a 14-50 to 6-50 adapter (originally plumed 240 for the welder and air compressor). I'm unsure how that will impact the connections and heat buildup. I also need to hope the kids didn't run off with my temp gun again .

Thank you.
---Bill.

 

[whitex]

The charger let me set it to 100%, and the car hit 8.4kW. 240V/50A line. I don't have time at the moment to monitor plug temps so I stopped the charge in order to come back later when I have a bit of time. One factor with temps, however, is I use a 14-50 to 6-50 adapter (originally plumed 240 for the welder and air compressor). I'm unsure how that will impact the connections and heat buildup. I also need to hope the kids didn't run off with my temp gun again .

What you want is a heat gun, to heat up the plug while in use and see what happens to the charging current (shuts off, or gets limited, then does it restart by itself when plug cools off).

 

[JIP1080]

What you want is a heat gun, to heat up the plug while in use and see what happens to the charging current (shuts off, or gets limited, then does it restart by itself when plug cools off).

TL;DR - abandoned the test due to electrician's sloppy labor.

I started down the path of charging with the fixed cable and wanted to let it eat for a bit before adding any artificial heat. It was running faster than what I have my ChargePoint set to. The Porsche supplied equipment was absolutely fine, but I noticed another connection in the 240 line to the garage was heating up well beyond normal (and still rising). So I abandoned the charge and I'll be sorting out what I suspect is a poor connection in the electrician-installed line upstream of the EVSE. So, yeah, fun times 🫤. Sorry not to have a result for y'all.

 

[Capt Mike]

Just got a recall notice from Porsche that my Porsche charger's 240 V cable will be replaced (someday)..in the meantime I can buy another charger and be re-imbursed up to $600. Interestingly, even tho the recall is tied to my car's VIN, that VIN does NOT show (yet?) as a recall on NHTSA site (perhaps because the car itself is not recalled?).

Anyway, I think I'll buy a charger (portable)(NEMA 14-50) .leaning towards a TESLA charger. Anyone have a recommendation?

I got the emporia 48 w from Amazon - easy to install and easy to use. Works right out of the box.

 

[Tooney]

NHTSA Complaint on May 26:

https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2022/PORSCHE/TAYCAN/4%2520DR/RWD#complaints

 

[JIP1080]

NHTSA Complaint on May 26:

https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2022/PORSCHE/TAYCAN/4%2520DR/RWD#complaints

Given I posted a picture of the new cable literally in my hand on May 22nd, the person filing the complaint needs to aim their gripes a little more locally.