Extended warranty or not?

[satchurator]

Warranty in general costs more than shop visits. It is its business model.
Works like any insurance. With huge profit.

Insurance is the right way to think about it. I had a $6K bill for a problem with my Cayenne that occurred just weeks out of factory / CPO warranty. If I'd had an extended warranty, it would have paid for itself right then.

It would be fascinating to see the economics of the Safe-Guard product, for Taycans specifically.

Betting that I wouldn't have a calamitous high cost repair over the space of 4 years, with the Taycan particularly - that is not a good bet IMO - so I went for the extended warranty, adding 4 years to match the 8 year battery warranty.

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[Bognar67]

Answer from Austria:

"Dear Mr. Bognar,

we are not allowed to extend the warranty for cars that registered in Hungary, sorry.

We have no license anymore…

Have a nice day!

Best regards,

Mit freundlichen Grüßen,"


So it seems Porsche started to keep it allowed country by country. -Sad.

Since we have only one Porsche dealership in HU they have no competition and able to offer the following extreme rates that I rather not pay and save it for the time when something will break down.
I'am already out of warranty for 1,5 years so saved ca. EUR4k up to now...

1Y-EUR2750

2Y-EUR4625

3Y-EUR6375

4Y-EUR7875

 

[Stan]

Since we have only one Porsche dealership in HU they have no competition and able to offer the following extreme rates that I rather not pay and save it for the time when something will break down.
I'am already out of warranty for 1,5 years so saved ca. EUR4k up to now...

1Y-EUR2750

2Y-EUR4625

3Y-EUR6375

4Y-EUR7875

I have been reading posts on extended warranties with interest as I couldn't understand everyone's insistence on having a warranty on the Taycan at all times. I have always viewed insurance as risk management or a financial budgeting tool. My wife and I don't have extended health or dental insurance and we pay out-of-pocket when needed. We are in the minority but for healthy individuals, the consensus is that we will end up far ahead compared to buying insurance.

Since Porsche must be profiting selling extended warranties, would it not be the case that on average (i.e. statistically speaking), an owner would be better off paying out-of-pocket? I realize that its a crap-shoot whether you'll be the one hit with the massive bill or not. And if this is correct, given that a lot of Porsche owners are financially well off, I'm surprised that some aren't willing to just pay out-of-pocket. I wonder if its the fear having heard from others of their high service bills that scares them into getting an extended warranty even if the math says otherwise.

BTW, I was quoted about $5500CAN for 2 years extended warranty. I didn't end up needing it as I have a 2.5 year lease and the factory warranty plus the 2 year CPO warranty covers that period.

Stan

 

[Rik_CT4s]

So that means the dealer is scamming you.
You can extend the warranty in any dealership in the EU.

Taycan here according to current pricelist (incl. VAT):
1y 2350 EUR
2y 4100 EUR
3y 5650 EUR
4y 6950 EUR

In Germany it's cheaper. For cars in warranty:
1y 1400 EUR
2y 2590 EUR
3y 3700 EUR

For cars out of warranty:
1y 1790 EUR
2y 2940 EUR
3y 4050 EUR

Just renewed it myself here in the Netherlands, it was exactly € 3525 for 3 years coverage. My Taycan still had coverage until nov 2026...that is now extended to nov 2029. I find it worth it.

 

[prj]

Just renewed it myself here in the Netherlands, it was exactly € 3525 for 3 years coverage. My Taycan still had coverage until nov 2026...that is now extended to nov 2029. I find it worth it.

I paid the 3700 EUR to have 5 years instead of 2 years warranty on my new 2026 CT4 order.
2000 euro cheaper than here locally.

I don't know why they are screwing different countries.

Interesting that it is even cheaper in the Netherlands.

 

[Rik_CT4s]

I paid the 3700 EUR to have 5 years instead of 2 years warranty on my new 2026 CT4 order.
2000 euro cheaper than here locally.

I don't know why they are screwing different countries.

Interesting that it is even cheaper in the Netherlands.

They mentioned it was a special deal...but another member I know based in the Netherlands also paid that same amount a longer while back, perhaps a prolonged special deal. Nonetheless, I think 3500€ for 3 years added is very agreeable. I took it as I believe this pricing cannot be maintained seeing the trouble with the car in general. More claims = higher insurance premiums

 

[Rik_CT4s]

I paid the 3700 EUR to have 5 years instead of 2 years warranty on my new 2026 CT4 order.
2000 euro cheaper than here locally.

I don't know why they are screwing different countries.

Interesting that it is even cheaper in the Netherlands.

Nice to see that you have pulled the trigger on the CT4 J1.2. Wondering how you experience it after selling the J1.1 TS CT (Same as mine). Especially with the tune.

 

[prj]

Nice to see that you have pulled the trigger on the CT4 J1.2. Wondering how you experience it after selling the J1.1 TS CT (Same as mine). Especially with the tune.

My CT4 will be fully loaded just as my Turbo S was. But it also has AR, Soft Close, and it will be faster.
The only thing I am not totally sure about is how it will behave from stop acceleration. I know it's about the same speed 0-100, but I think it might be a little slower 0-50 and faster 50-100.

This is because the front motor has 100Nm less torque. The rear motor has 70Nm more (and the gear ratio is 2x faster in the rear in first gear), so it gains more than it loses, but the bias is different.
The old car was 25-75 front to rear, the new one will be 18-82 front to rear.
When starting from a stop it was mostly the rear that was slipping, not the front.

However, the biggest change is that the old car was really only very fast at 70-100% SoC. Below 60% SoC you had noticeably less wheelspin because of less power and under 50% it was perceivably down on power. The new car will do sub 3 seconds even at 25%. Below 50% it will be over half a second quicker than my Turbo S was.

I tried to find a used MY25 Turbo S - and there were some at about the same price level as my new order, but... I did not find one with both the AR and the noise dampening glazing. Or they had cloth interiors, which is a no-go with two small kids. Or they were 200k+.
On the CT/ST the noise dampening glazing makes a surprising amount of difference if you drive them back to back. You have a lot of noise all over, and from the back without it. On the Sedan it's a little less pronounced.

Anyway, this came out a little long - but the reason I wasn't dead set on the Turbo S on the facelift, is because it has the same problem with the battery. Yes, it has better acceleration from a stop, but again you get the same issue where below 50% or so, it won't have any more power output than the other cars anyway when tuned. So you have more power 50-85%, no big deal. And then with the new car I could option the comfort seats, 20" wheels and so on. Little things that make it more comfortable.

 

[Avantgarde]

However, the biggest change is that the old car was really only very fast at 70-100% SoC. Below 60% SoC you had noticeably less wheelspin because of less power and under 50% it was perceivably down on power. The new car will do sub 3 seconds even at 25%. Below 50% it will be over half a second quicker than my Turbo S was.

Off topic but do you know what causes reduced performance when SoC is lower? Is it simply the fact battery hits a lower KW ceiling? And if so does it mean the lower trims (eg RWD) should not have much of a performance difference whether SoC is 100% or 30%?

 

[satchurator]

I have been reading posts on extended warranties with interest as I couldn't understand everyone's insistence on having a warranty on the Taycan at all times. I have always viewed insurance as risk management or a financial budgeting tool. My wife and I don't have extended health or dental insurance and we pay out-of-pocket when needed. We are in the minority but for healthy individuals, the consensus is that we will end up far ahead compared to buying insurance.

Since Porsche must be profiting selling extended warranties, would it not be the case that on average (i.e. statistically speaking), an owner would be better off paying out-of-pocket? I realize that its a crap-shoot whether you'll be the one hit with the massive bill or not. And if this is correct, given that a lot of Porsche owners are financially well off, I'm surprised that some aren't willing to just pay out-of-pocket. I wonder if its the fear having heard from others of their high service bills that scares them into getting an extended warranty even if the math says otherwise.

BTW, I was quoted about $5500CAN for 2 years extended warranty. I didn't end up needing it as I have a 2.5 year lease and the factory warranty plus the 2 year CPO warranty covers that period.

Stan

Porsche and their underwriter for North America Safe-Guard can have a profitable Extended Warranty program because it's essentially an insurance product and their risk is spread across the entire fleet of warrantied/insured cars.

To use your medical analogy, we the patients know that we are genetically predisposed to a number of catastrophic illnesses which might not manifest but if they do, could be prohibitively expensive to treat such that bankruptcy or death are the options.

There are plenty of HNW folks here who manage risk in their professions and are more comfortable squandering $3-5K than with the idea of spending half the value of the entire car upon losing non-warranty roulette.

 

[prj]

Off topic but do you know what causes reduced performance when SoC is lower? Is it simply the fact battery hits a lower KW ceiling? And if so does it mean the lower trims (eg RWD) should not have much of a performance difference whether SoC is 100% or 30%?

The BMS has a current draw limit - battery power is voltage x current. As the battery is discharged more, the voltage drops, and the power drops with it. The current draw limit is also not a single fixed number, it is a mapped value based on various battery parameters, such as SoC, temperature etc.

The J1.1 battery is on it's limit. 588 kW is the absolute maximum the motors can make after the losses.
Voltage also drops the longer you are drawing a large current from the battery, which is why a J1.1 Turbo S has 100 PS less at the end of a 100-200km/h pull.

The J1.2 battery however is much more capable. The motors can make up to 860 kW at the limit on a Turbo GT. On the Taycan 4 - Turbo variants the motors are only capable of safely making 691 kW, which means that not only is there significant headroom, but also power does not drop off during a pull. Which is why a tuned J1.1 Taycan 4 CT is almost 2 seconds faster 100-200 comapred to a tuned J1.1 Taycan Turbo S. The J1.2 Turbo S can make 794 kW with a tune, but of course it's also more sensitive to SoC and prolonged pulls. The standard Turbo GT is really quite pointless unless you want to go faster than 270 km/h - due to the longer gear ratio it isn't any faster in first gear. The Weissach is a different animal due to the weight loss.

And of course on the RWD variants there is no perceivable difference at 30% SoC, because it is using a fraction of what the battery is capable of.

 

[Bognar67]

Porsche and their underwriter for North America Safe-Guard can have a profitable Extended Warranty program because it's essentially an insurance product and their risk is spread across the entire fleet of warrantied/insured cars.

To use your medical analogy, we the patients know that we are genetically predisposed to a number of catastrophic illnesses which might not manifest but if they do, could be prohibitively expensive to treat such that bankruptcy or death are the options.

There are plenty of HNW folks here who manage risk in their professions and are more comfortable squandering $3-5K than with the idea of spending half the value of the entire car upon losing non-warranty roulette.

The battery is under warranty 8y/160k km as the "catastrophic" value. Other possibilities to break down take much less value.
Spending half of the value of the entire car for a break down (out of HV battery) is extreme.

If it is the car that needs life time warranty to sleep well I rather sell it and use ICE lifetime.

We will see, I do not pay, and counting the saved money on it to cover possible break down out of pocket.

Generally it depends on the cost of the warranty, my country is crazy on it, Italy, Slovenia, Germany, US etc. prices are reasonable, my one is NOT.

 

[prj]

The battery is under warranty 8y/160k km as the "catastrophic" value. Other possibilities to break down take much less value.
Spending half of the value of the entire car for a break down (out of HV battery) is extreme.

If it is the car that needs life time warranty to sleep well I rather sell it and use ICE lifetime.

We will see, I do not pay, and counting the saved money on it to cover possible break down out of pocket.

Generally it depends on the cost of the warranty, my country is crazy on it, Italy, Slovenia, Germany, US etc. prices are reasonable, my one is NOT.

The other costly repairs are OBC (but warranty was extended on it), heater (I think also), but the one that is very expensive and there is no extension are the front and rear inverters, which can develop faults. Shows as an error under launch control.

 

[Bognar67]

The other costly repairs are OBC (but warranty was extended on it), heater (I think also), but the one that is very expensive and there is no extension are the front and rear inverters, which can develop faults. Shows as an error under launch control.

Inverter is 6k. If it hits I’ll replace it, and probably sell the car and buy a 911 street one. Up to now I saved 3,5k not to pay warranty so the count goes.
Anyway inverters are available for 2-3k used from totalled cars. Heaters OBC-s also. I had an OBC replace after warranty and paid EUR500 for it.

 

[prj]

Inverter is 6k, equals to 1,5 years of Hungarian extended warranty.

It's not 6k, it's significantly less, the problem is the labor involved in dropping the battery.

Another fairly common fault is the rear gearbox developing a whine and it eventually self destructs due to bad bearings. The replacement assembly has been dropped, you can only buy a new one for the price of 17000 EUR, and then add to that labor.
My Turbo S that I sold had this whine, was still faint (and the car was under warranty), but it will fail eventually.

A single matrix light is 3k, and they fail sometimes.

Yeah, the price is a bit excessive in Hungary, but in those countries where it is like 1200 EUR per year (or 100 EUR per month), it's pretty much a nobrainer.

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