Search results

I wish there were hard buttons for homelink. The screens are annoying. My routine: start car, engage reverse and back out of garage. Stop car, (still in reverse), then push homelink button to the right of reverse camera, then press home link button to close the door, then press park assist so...

Use a long press on the three small lines beneath the word “Sync” at the center of the display. It can only be changed when stopped and in Park (If my memory serves me) The CarPlay icon only appears if CarPlay is connected. Otherwise you’ll only see four icons.

I just replaced a Leviton with a Hubbell. I noticed the Hubbell is cool to the touch when charging. The Leviton was warm (not hot). Charge rate 9.6 kw

Typically when I do a two finger reset it happens immediately, and the precise placement of my two fingers doesn’t matter. There have been a few times that the two finger reset was difficult to initiate. I had to try multiple efforts in slightly different locations in order to trigger the reset.

Mine has been doing this randomly since new. Car was delivered in June and has been running the latest software (PCM) since new. The uPdate upgraded a few other modules, but not the PCM as it was already running the latest. I’m pretty disappointed in the lack of updates. The current PCM...

I’ll take the bait…2 technical points before I answer. First and most importantly, recuperation is always active (except for first mile or two of driving each day to clean the brake discs, abs intervention, etc). Second, the recuperation setting, on/off/auto, changes coasting behavior...

I use it too despite not being able to see out the back. Install and removal is easy. I do wish it rolled into the seatback as it does on my cayenne.

No one has mentioned the worst part of the net. The top bar cuts directly through the drivers line of sight out the rear window. The mesh part is below the view out the rear glass. it’s garbage.

Interested. Sent you a PM.

Yes, you can reboot while driving.

This is exactly what I have noticed as well. Although I believe the overhead consumption is based on time, and not on total KWh delivered.

I do not have variable electricity rates. As I mentioned,I’d say parasitic consumption is somewhere between 400-800 watts. When combine with slow charging 50% of that energy is lost. Conversely, in my old house when I charged at 9600 watts, 800 watts of parasitic consumption was...

The top bar fits into the roof notches. The top bar also is spring loaded. Push in the end and rotate 30-45 degrees and it’ll extend fully. It has this so that it can be compressed and stored in the rear underfloor storage. Buckles should face the rear

I have noticed very high billing with slow charging. My theory is that there is so much overhead consumption that very little battery charging occurs. I recently moved into a new house and am awaiting a fast charge installation. My electric bills are far higher as I charge at 120v and 1600...

Contact cement is the leather workers glue of choice. If the tears is a flap that just needs to be glued down, you could try the contact cement. I’m talking the kind in the small can with a brush attached to the lid.

Those are 12ft boards.

This is the way selecting KPH in my car works too. Very annoying. I live in the US, so it’s not a big deal, just an annoyance on trips to Canada. I think you could try having the car’s region set to Europe, or Deutschland and that might work. That change would be made via PWIS at a dealer...

Do some cars not have a park assist button on the bottom left of the haptic input pad?

I like the way it incorporates battery charge into navigation. No complaints and would buy it again. Given the scarcity of charging in the US I think it is helpful. This is for long trips of course…

Perhaps try deleting everything and starting over. It might be that the location-based portion of the timer has been corrupted, similar to how smart-lift lost its memory.