How good is your Taycan at winter?

[f1eng]

Do you have the top vent open (independently controlled)?

I've not experienced these issues and if Auto is not on you can find that doesn't help everywhere else.

Check the top vent and if not preheated then hit the max button to force air to the screen.

My ignorance of the heater controls is complete due to never having a problem (when it is working) so have just left all the settings as when I picked it up new.
I vary the temperature a bit 20 to 22C, that is all.
I did look at the ventilation control screen in the PCM and it was a facepalm moment - why oh why too many controls.

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[d00d]

As far as I know the climate control pre heat function doesn't heat the HVB, although it may heat up slightly in the course of doing so.
It does naturally heat up in the course of driving, and more so when navigating to a charger.

 

[ovonrein]

No, there is nothing "natural" about the HVB warming up as you drive towards a charger. The car burns plenty of Wh to get this done. And, yes, it heats up during the preheat cycle. It is hence more efficient to preheat for a long time while connected to the mains than skimping that cycle and setting off cold.

 

[ovonrein]

Check the top vent and if not preheated then hit the max button to force air to the screen.

Yes, the top vent is open and, yes, you can get there via the Max button. But the racket that Max causes is nothing you want on a long drive and as soon as I turned it off, the wind screen started freezing over again. (It was a horrendous drive with just enough surface water to freeze the screen but not really enough to wipe it. I ended up wasting plenty of screen wash.) So, the better option really is to permanently redirect the airflow during the winter months.

 

[d00d]

The word natural belongs to the first part of the sentence, not the last.

 

[f1eng]

As far as I know the climate control pre heat function doesn't heat the HVB, although it may heat up slightly in the course of doing so.

Mine does.
It probably uses a lot of power too to heat a solid 500kg.
The battery drops to more or less ambient temperature over night and if I set off with 5C the car is obviously sluggish.
I use preheat if it has been frosty and the battery heats to around 13 to 15C if I do the full hour (the cabin only needs 15 minutes or so).

 

[ovonrein]

It's like saying "shocker: 911 24.6mpg, Audi Diesel 54mpg". It's entirely expected

Yes, that too is a shocker when both cars are just poodleing along.

 

[W1NGE]

That's good to know.
I was simply going off what I can see in the app, where I can set a cabin temp and individual seat heating, and the heated wheel is linked to the dirver's seat setting.

I had no idea it intelligently did the rear window.
I don't recall it doing anything, but maybe I didn't give it long enough. I usually, activate the heating 30 mins before my commute.

For the next cold spell, I'll try the departure timer feature.
I have no interest in heating the battery for a 6 mile journey, so hopefully it'll just do the cabin.

Heated wheel has a separate switch on the physical steering wheel too.

Preheat / cool is specifically for cabin heating and nothing else.

Preconditioning is separate (via NAV) and for HV battery only.

 

[W1NGE]

Mine does.
It probably uses a lot of power too to heat a solid 500kg.
The battery drops to more or less ambient temperature over night and if I set off with 5C the car is obviously sluggish.
I use preheat if it has been frosty and the battery heats to around 13 to 15C if I do the full hour (the cabin only needs 15 minutes or so).

I think the battery warming is a side effect of heating the cabin given the use of the HV heater and 60 min duration. All the other elements are 12v.

Fine if this is what you want but as you'll know can eat a chunk of charge.

 

[W1NGE]

Is that a shocker though? It doesn't surprise me in the slightest. It makes perfect sense that the smaller, lighter car can achieve a far better efficiency. It's like saying "shocker: 911 24.6mpg, Audi Diesel 54mpg". It's entirely expected

More a S-H-O-C-K-E-R-O-O-N-E-Y !

 

[W1NGE]

My ignorance of the heater controls is complete due to never having a problem (when it is working) so have just left all the settings as when I picked it up new.
I vary the temperature a bit 20 to 22C, that is all.
I did look at the ventilation control screen in the PCM and it was a facepalm moment - why oh why too many controls.

Ha ha, in my case the top vent was off on delivery but if you can see current wavey things you're good.

 

[f1eng]

I think the battery warming is a side effect of heating the cabin given the use of the HV heater and 60 min duration. All the other elements are 12v.

Fine if this is what you want but as you'll know can eat a chunk of charge.

Maybe as simple as that but the car is certainly sluggish if the battery is 5C.
I had the impression battery heating was added to the pre-heat function during pre-release cold weather testing because of the low temperature causing poor initial car performance but don't remember where I read it.

 

[ovonrein]

From near where W1nge quoted the manual:

If precool/heat was switched on using a timer, the exterior mirrors and rear window are automatically heated at low temperatures to de-ice the windows and mirror glass

So here I have the weird answer to my original question: exterior mirrors will only heat from a timer.

 

[W1NGE]

Yes, the top vent is open and, yes, you can get there via the Max button. But the racket that Max causes is nothing you want on a long drive and as soon as I turned it off, the wind screen started freezing over again. (It was a horrendous drive with just enough surface water to freeze the screen but not really enough to wipe it. I ended up wasting plenty of screen wash.) So, the better option really is to permanently redirect the airflow during the winter months.

You can reduce the fan speed and the temp remains at HI setting.

4 cold winters many sub zero days no faffing with demisting or re-misting. I did consume electrons as I would have AC at 23C.

 

[Scandinavian]

I think the battery warming is a side effect of heating the cabin given the use of the HV heater and 60 min duration. All the other elements are 12v.

Fine if this is what you want but as you'll know can eat a chunk of charge.

If you plan for preheating in the car by setting a departure time (or whatever it is called by Porsche, I am 2500 km away from car now), the car will preheat the battery. When it is plugged in and has been charging over night. At least mine does that and I can see that the PTC heater draws a lot of power 7-10 kW. If I only start preheating via app, the cabin heating only draws 1 or 2 kW

Setting both charging and then departure time gives me a battery temperature of 12-15 C. Saw enormous benefit of this approach in Norway when it was minus 15 -20 C during the night and needed the car next morning.

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