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New Charger-related recall (for the 240 V cable) (NHTSA ID 23V-841)

refazi

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plug and play, no need to electrician if you just change the charger and plug to the same NEMA 14-50 outlet.
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4thPcar

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curious if there is any advantage to buy from Tesla direct vs Amazon or other retailers?
 

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This is my current setup which I already reduced to 50% power per the most recent advisory. I am pretty handy with a hammer, drill etc but I am an idiot when it comes to electricity (the NEMA outlet was installed by an electrician who also upgraded our panel). So while I could easily install the Tesla charger in place of what is here, do I need an electrician to do some calibration or can I do that myself? @daveo4EV ?

IMG_2173.webp
Tesla Wall Charger is _NOT_ a plug based unit - it's hardwired…but if your a DIY type person you can get the following:

the wire linked below has a pre-constructed NEMA 14-50 plug leading to 4 bare-wire connectors so you can use the plug to plug in your wall unit, and hardwire the connectors inside the wall unit's "dock" - this plug/wire/pig-tail effectively turns any hardwired 240V device to a plug-based device - for this application we'll only use 3 of the 4 provided wires (Red, Black, Green) - white wire will be ignored/unused - EVSE's don't need/use the white wire (electrical neutral) - so inside the dock you can simply cover the wire with electrical tape or wire nut…the wire linked below is high quality 10ft 6/8 gauge wire more than sufficient for a 50/40 amp current load.

we'll cut off the "loop connectors" - and strip the wire back below the loop connectors to expose about 3/4" of wire to use inside the Tesla dock for the electrical connection.

see picture below - there is nothing magic going on here - each "blade" on a NEMA plugs corresponds to one of the wires "inside" the black insulation - 4 blades = 4 wires - each blade "feeds" power/electrical current to it's corresponding wire - most/any/all EVSE's in North America need 3 (only 3) electrical connections - Red Wire is one 120V power source, Black Wire is the "other" 120V power source, Green is electrical "ground" - White is Electrical Neutral - EVSE's don't use the neutral - the two "powered" wires/blades combined (each 120 volts) provide 240 volts of power - inside the Tesla "dock" there are 3 connecting barrels - two barrel/connectors each for one 120V power feed, and 3 barrel for the ground - there is no barrel of neutral since it's not required - you simply insert one wire into each barrel inside the dock (L1/L2-N/Ground) - tighten and you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D28DTD/ref=twister_B08FXNQ1QB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Porsche Taycan New Charger-related recall (for the 240 V cable) (NHTSA ID 23V-841) IMG_2076


get at least the 10 ft model to give yourself ample working room w/wires…

it's a 4 wire "NEMA 14-50 plug + bare wires" - only 3 of which will be used
  • cut off the wire "loops" and strip each of the 4 wires to expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire
  • Red wire is 120V and goes to L1 inside the Tesla dock
  • Blackwire is 120V and goes to L2/N inside the Tesla dock
  • Green wire is ground and goes to the 'ground' connection inside the dock
  • white wire is "unused" in this affair - you can cap it with a wire nut but it doesn't matter (neutral carries no voltage)
  • _IF_ your NEMA socket is a 6-50 the approach is the same but there are only 3 wires involved (same two 120V hot wires + ground)- and you'll need a 6-50 wire like the 14-50 I've linked.
to "adjust" the Tesla Wall charger to 50/40 amps (50 amp breaker 40 amp charge rate) - you'll need to connect to the Wall charger's wifi hot-spot and use a web-browser to visit 192.168.92.1 and adjust the settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate - while you're there you can also connect the unit to your home WiFi (for OTA updates) and you'll be good to go.
  1. TURN _OFF_ the breaker feeding the NEMA socket - SAFETY FIRST
  2. DOUBLE CHECK THE BREAKER IS OFF
  3. mount Tesla Wall charger dock using provided mounting screws (try and find a stud)
  4. DO NOT PLUG IN THE WIRE TO YOUR NEMA SOCKET AT THIS TIME
    1. check the length of the wire from the plug to the connecting points inside the dock - adjust dock position/height to make sure the wire's will reach
    2. this is why you get the 10ft unit to make this job easier
    3. you can cut the wires to shorten them if so desired and you're adventurous…
  5. wire up the NEMA 14-50 pig-tail I linked from amazon (or similar from local hardware store) - 3 wires (2x120V wires Red/Black + ground Green - ignore the white wire - cap it off)
    1. inside the dock - there are three connecting points you can insert the wires from the top or the bottom
    2. connection is secured by tightening the connecting cylinder screws with the Tesla provide "bit" - tighter is better - you don't want these coming loose inside the unit
      1. make sure all "bare" wire is deep inside the connecting cylinders - no exposed bare wire above/below the cylinders to avoid any shorts during operation
  6. Mount the Wall charger to the dock once the wire's are secure and routed
    1. secure the Wall charger to the dock using the four mounting screws provided with the Wall unit - this secures the charger to the dock and seals the unit so all electrical stuff happens "inside" the wall unit/dock.
  7. everything should now be closed up…and secure
  8. Plug in the NEMA plug to your existing socket - it's been unplugged this entire time right? that makes it so that you won't electrocute yourself while wiring it up - since the plug is NOT plugged in and the BREAKER is off there is no chance of live power causing problems - DO NOT PLUG IN THE WIRE FROM AMAZON UNTIL EVERYTHING IS SEALED UP.
  9. If everything is closed up and secure - you can turn ON the breaker
    1. Tesla unit should power up
  10. using phone/tablet/notebook connect to unit's wifi hot spot (WiFi SSID name + password provided + QR Code on setup documentation)
  11. using a web-browser navigate to 192.168.92.1
  12. configure the unit to "join" your home wifi network
  13. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection
  14. run software update - rinse lather repeat until it says no more updates
  15. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection each time you reboot the unit after a software update
  16. adjust the units' power settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate
  17. you're done.
below is a picture of the inside of a Tesla dock annotated with where each of the 3 wires will connect inside the dock - I think the picture should be self explanatory…the bare portion of each of the 3 wires should be entirely "inside" each of the connection cylinders no bare wire above/below/visible at the connection point - trim wire length as necessary to make this true - and then tighten the center screws to secure each of the wires - make sure the wires are NOT LOOSE after you tighten the center screws - pull/push on them hard and make sure they do not move - the "white" wire can just be sealed off and pushed aside inside the dock (electrical tape or wire nut is sufficient) - use zip ties to secure the wires inside the dock - and seal the entrance at the top/bottom of the dock using a standard electrical grommet clamp…

for the truly adventurous red/black and L1/L2/N doesn't matter - they are both 120V power sources and the dock doesn't care - the important one is to get the ground right - green must go to ground, but the other two wires are interchangeable since they are both simply 120V power…

Porsche Taycan New Charger-related recall (for the 240 V cable) (NHTSA ID 23V-841) IMG_2463
 
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daveo4EV

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Tesla Wall Charger is _NOT_ a plug based unit - it's hardwired…but if your a DIY type person you can get the following:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D28DTD/ref=twister_B08FXNQ1QB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

get at least the 10 ft model to give yourself ample working room w/wires…

it's a 4 wire "NEMA 14-50 plug + bare wires" - only 3 of which will be used
  • cut off the wire "loops" and strip each of the 4 wires to expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire
  • Red wire is 120V and goes to L1 inside the Tesla dock
  • Blackwire is 120V and goes to L2/N inside the Tesla dock
  • Green wire is ground and goes to the 'ground' connection inside the dock
  • white wire is "unused" in this affair - you can cap it with a wire nut but it doesn't matter (neutral carries no voltage)
  • _IF_ your NEMA socket is a 6-50 the approach is the same but there are only 3 wires involved (same two 120V hot wires + ground)- and you'll need a 6-50 wire like the 14-50 I've linked.
to "adjust" the Tesla Wall charger to 50/40 amps (50 amp breaker 40 amp charge rate) - you'll need to connect to the Wall charger's wifi hot-spot and use a web-browser to visit 192.168.92.1 and adjust the settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate - while you're there you can also connect the unit to your home WiFi (for OTA updates) and you'll be good to go.
  1. TURN _OFF_ the breaker feeding the NEMA socket - SAFETY FIRST
  2. DOUBLE CHECK THE BREAKER IS OFF
  3. mount Tesla Wall charger dock using provided mounting screws (try and find a stud)
  4. DO NOT PLUG IN THE WIRE TO YOUR NEMA SOCKET AT THIS TIME
    1. check the length of the wire from the plug to the connecting points inside the dock - adjust dock position/height to make sure the wire's will reach
    2. this is why you get the 10ft unit to make this job easier
    3. you can cut the wires to shorten them if so desired and you're adventurous…
  5. wire up the NEMA 14-50 pig-tail I linked from amazon (or similar from local hardware store) - 3 wires (2x120V wires Red/Black + ground Green - ignore the white wire - cap it off)
    1. inside the dock - there are three connecting points you can insert the wires from the top or the bottom
    2. connection is secured by tightening the connecting cylinder screws with the Tesla provide "bit" - tighter is better - you don't want these coming loose inside the unit
      1. make sure all "bare" wire is deep inside the connecting cylinders - no exposed bare wire above/below the cylinders to avoid any shorts during operation
  6. Mount the Wall charger to the dock once the wire's are secure and routed
  7. everything should now be closed up…
  8. Plug in the NEMA plug to your existing socket
  9. If everything is closed up and secure - you can turn ON the breaker
    1. unit should power up
  10. using phone/tablet/notebook connect to unit's wifi hot spot (WiFi SSID name + password provided + QR Code on setup documentation)
  11. using a web-browser navigate to 192.168.92.1
  12. configure the unit to "join" your home wifi network
  13. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection
  14. run software update - rinse lather repeat until it says no more updates
  15. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection each time you reboot the unit after a software update
  16. adjust the units' power settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate
  17. you're done.
this also works - but it's only 5 ft cable - little less working room - but includes the clamp to seal the entrance where the wire enters the Tesla dock…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ5N5D1...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

but you get the idea - the difference between a hard wired unit and a plug based unit is basically if the EVSE vendor ships the EVSE with one of these cables 'pre-installed' - at the end of the day - all North American EVSE's are simple 3 wire devices - two 120V hot wires + ground wire - and you're good to go.

if you're not comfortable with _ANY_ of this simply hire an electrician - it's an easy device to wire up and if you already have the 50 amp circuit - adding _ANY_ EVSE to an existing 50 amp circuit should be less than two hours labor (easy) really one hour if the electrican is competent.

the trick is to use better wire than porsche - all the plugs wires I've linked are 6 gauge wire for the 2 120V hots, and 8 gauge wire for the neutral/ground - more than sufficient for 50/40 amp usage.

DO NOT USE 10 AND/OR 12 GAUGE WIRE FOR THIS APPLICATION. 6 GAUGE FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE LINES (RED/BLACK) - 8 GAUGE FOR NEUTRAL/GROUND are the MINIMUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CONTINUOUS 50/40 AMP CURRENT LOADS THAT WILL RUN FOR HOURS CHARGING A 90 KWH BATTERY.
 

ciaranob

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I guess I've been a bit out of the loop on this 'recall/refund' and TBH, don't really care that much as moved on from the Porsche debacle long ago.

That said, I've personally received nothing from Porsche on this ('22 model, Nov 2021 build) - should I have received a notice or is this only going out to specific model years? And apologies if answer in one of the linked threads but looking for quick answer :)!
 


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I guess I've been a bit out of the loop on this 'recall/refund' and TBH, don't really care that much as moved on from the Porsche debacle long ago.

That said, I've personally received nothing from Porsche on this ('22 model, Nov 2021 build) - should I have received a notice or is this only going out to specific model years? And apologies if answer in one of the linked threads but looking for quick answer :)!
I got the notice in the mail today however I knew it was coming from what dealer told me. Call yours.
 

4thPcar

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this also works - but it's only 5 ft cable - little less working room - but includes the clamp to seal the entrance where the wire enters the Tesla dock…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ5N5D1...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

but you get the idea - the difference between a hard wired unit and a plug based unit is basically if the EVSE vendor ships the EVSE with one of these cables 'pre-installed' - at the end of the day - all North American EVSE's are simple 3 wire devices - two 120V hot wires + ground wire - and you're good to go.

if you're not comfortable with _ANY_ of this simply hire an electrician - it's an easy device to wire up and if you already have the 50 amp circuit - adding _ANY_ EVSE to an existing 50 amp circuit should be less than two hours labor (easy) really one hour if the electrican is competent.

the trick is to use better wire than porsche - all the plugs wires I've linked are 6 gauge wire for the 2 120V hots, and 8 gauge wire for the neutral/ground - more than sufficient for 50/40 amp usage.

DO NOT USE 10 AND/OR 12 GAUGE WIRE FOR THIS APPLICATION. 6 GAUGE FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE LINES (RED/BLACK) - 8 GAUGE FOR NEUTRAL/GROUND are the MINIMUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CONTINUOUS 50/40 AMP CURRENT LOADS THAT WILL RUN FOR HOURS CHARGING A 90 KWH BATTERY.
this also works - but it's only 5 ft cable - little less working room - but includes the clamp to seal the entrance where the wire enters the Tesla dock…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ5N5D1...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

but you get the idea - the difference between a hard wired unit and a plug based unit is basically if the EVSE vendor ships the EVSE with one of these cables 'pre-installed' - at the end of the day - all North American EVSE's are simple 3 wire devices - two 120V hot wires + ground wire - and you're good to go.

if you're not comfortable with _ANY_ of this simply hire an electrician - it's an easy device to wire up and if you already have the 50 amp circuit - adding _ANY_ EVSE to an existing 50 amp circuit should be less than two hours labor (easy) really one hour if the electrican is competent.

the trick is to use better wire than porsche - all the plugs wires I've linked are 6 gauge wire for the 2 120V hots, and 8 gauge wire for the neutral/ground - more than sufficient for 50/40 amp usage.

DO NOT USE 10 AND/OR 12 GAUGE WIRE FOR THIS APPLICATION. 6 GAUGE FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE LINES (RED/BLACK) - 8 GAUGE FOR NEUTRAL/GROUND are the MINIMUM RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CONTINUOUS 50/40 AMP CURRENT LOADS THAT WILL RUN FOR HOURS CHARGING A 90 KWH BATTERY.
@daveo4EV thanks so much for the service you are providing the rest of us. I think I can handle it, but I will do a few things first:

1. Make sure my car is charged to 100%
2. Read all your posts related to this install
3. Put you on speed-dial. Oh shit that's not an option. Refer back to #2.
 

4thPcar

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wall chargers are hardwired only - if you want something that can plug in I recommend a Wallbox, ChargePoint, Enphase/ClipperCreek EVSE - they have models that are plug based but still non-mobile wall chargers…
so just so I understand you are recommending the Tesla unit over these other options that are easier to install because.....?
 


daveo4EV

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so just so I understand you are recommending the Tesla unit over these other options that are easier to install because.....?
  • adjustable amps (others can do this) - but 60/48 amp "out of box" - so it's flexible - some others are 'fixed' amps and to change requires purchasing a different unit.
  • future possibility of multiple units "sharing" a single circuit (not a lot of other EVSE's can do this sort of thing, enphase/clippercreek is one)
    • if you get a macan EV or Hybrid or other EV you can easily "add" a 2nd Tesla Wall charger and have it "share" your existing 50 amp circuit.
    • "easy" in this context is compared to geting a 2nd dedicated circuit installed for a whole separate EVSE - it's some work to do this, but way less than an entirely new dedicated circuit for a dedicated 2nd EVSE.
  • universal unit supports both J-1772/NACS EV plug types (no other EVSE's currently have this but you can purchase an adapter for equal functionality but it's not "integrated")
  • I like the look of the tesla unit - but others disagree
  • $600 price point is hard to beat but it can be done
other units are also awesome and equally good - so if you want to go with another unit that is already plug based you'll do awesome with no need to have any regrets.
 
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4thPcar

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  • adjustable amps (others can do this) - but 60/48 amp "out of box" - so it's flexible - some others are 'fixed' amps and to change requires purchasing a different unit.
  • future possibility of multiple units "sharing" a single circuit (not a lot of other EVSE's can do this sort of thing, enphase/clippercreek is one)
    • if you get a macan EV or Hybrid or other EV you can easily "add" a 2nd Tesla Wall charger and have it "share" your existing 50 amp circuit.
    • "easy" in this context is compared to geting a 2nd dedicated circuit installed for a whole separate EVSE - it's some work to do this, but way less than an entirely new dedicated circuit for a dedicated 2nd EVSE.
  • universal unit supports both J-1772/NACS EV plug types (no other EVSE's currently have this but you can purchase an adapter for equal functionality but it's not "integrated")
  • I like the look of the tesla unit - but others disagree
  • $600 price point is hard to beat but it can be done
other units are also awesome and equally good - so if you want to go with another unit that is already plug based you'll do awesome with no need to have any regrets.
You've sold me on this little DIY project (btw we have a Tesla charger on the other side of my garage servicing my wife's Model 3). But if you look at the pic of my charger, I really only need a NEMA cord of maybe a couple feet, not 5 and certainly not 10. Unless, as usual...I am missing something?
 

daveo4EV

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You've sold me on this little DIY project (btw we have a Tesla charger on the other side of my garage servicing my wife's Model 3). But if you look at the pic of my charger, I really only need a NEMA cord of maybe a couple feet, not 5 and certainly not 10. Unless, as usual...I am missing something?
there is "distance" inside the unit you have to cover and thicker cords are harder to maneuver - better to have too much and cut the wire down to length needed vs. being too short and trying to make it work…

you'll lose at least 2 ft just from the NEMA socket to the connection points - you may not need 10 ft - but I would rather have too much wire than too little length wise…
 

4thPcar

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there is "distance" inside the unit you have to cover and thicker cords are harder to maneuver - better to have too much and cut the wire down to length needed vs. being too short and trying to make it work…

you'll lose at least 2 ft just from the NEMA socket to the connection points - you may not need 10 ft - but I would rather have too much wire than too little length wise…
Ah, ok makes total sense. I'll go with the 5 ft version thank u.
 

4thPcar

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Tesla Wall Charger is _NOT_ a plug based unit - it's hardwired…but if your a DIY type person you can get the following:

the wire linked below has a pre-constructed NEMA 14-50 plug leading to 4 bare-wire connectors so you can use the plug to plug in your wall unit, and hardwire the connectors inside the wall unit's "dock" - this plug/wire/pig-tail effectively turns any hardwired 240V device to a plug-based device - for this application we'll only use 3 of the 4 provided wires (Red, Black, Green) - white wire will be ignored/unused - EVSE's don't need/use the white wire (electrical neutral) - so inside the dock you can simply cover the wire with electrical tape or wire nut…the wire linked below is high quality 10ft 6/8 gauge wire more than sufficient for a 50/40 amp current load.

we'll cut off the "loop connectors" - and strip the wire back below the loop connectors to expose about 3/4" of wire to use inside the Tesla dock for the electrical connection.

see picture below - there is nothing magic going on here - each "blade" on a NEMA plugs corresponds to one of the wires "inside" the black insulation - 4 blades = 4 wires - each blade "feeds" power/electrical current to it's corresponding wire - most/any/all EVSE's in North America need 3 (only 3) electrical connections - Red Wire is one 120V power source, Black Wire is the "other" 120V power source, Green is electrical "ground" - White is Electrical Neutral - EVSE's don't use the neutral - the two "powered" wires/blades combined (each 120 volts) provide 240 volts of power - inside the Tesla "dock" there are 3 connecting barrels - two barrel/connectors each for one 120V power feed, and 3 barrel for the ground - there is no barrel of neutral since it's not required - you simply insert one wire into each barrel inside the dock (L1/L2-N/Ground) - tighten and you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D28DTD/ref=twister_B08FXNQ1QB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

IMG_2076.JPG


get at least the 10 ft model to give yourself ample working room w/wires…

it's a 4 wire "NEMA 14-50 plug + bare wires" - only 3 of which will be used
  • cut off the wire "loops" and strip each of the 4 wires to expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire
  • Red wire is 120V and goes to L1 inside the Tesla dock
  • Blackwire is 120V and goes to L2/N inside the Tesla dock
  • Green wire is ground and goes to the 'ground' connection inside the dock
  • white wire is "unused" in this affair - you can cap it with a wire nut but it doesn't matter (neutral carries no voltage)
  • _IF_ your NEMA socket is a 6-50 the approach is the same but there are only 3 wires involved (same two 120V hot wires + ground)- and you'll need a 6-50 wire like the 14-50 I've linked.
to "adjust" the Tesla Wall charger to 50/40 amps (50 amp breaker 40 amp charge rate) - you'll need to connect to the Wall charger's wifi hot-spot and use a web-browser to visit 192.168.92.1 and adjust the settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate - while you're there you can also connect the unit to your home WiFi (for OTA updates) and you'll be good to go.
  1. TURN _OFF_ the breaker feeding the NEMA socket - SAFETY FIRST
  2. DOUBLE CHECK THE BREAKER IS OFF
  3. mount Tesla Wall charger dock using provided mounting screws (try and find a stud)
  4. DO NOT PLUG IN THE WIRE TO YOUR NEMA SOCKET AT THIS TIME
    1. check the length of the wire from the plug to the connecting points inside the dock - adjust dock position/height to make sure the wire's will reach
    2. this is why you get the 10ft unit to make this job easier
    3. you can cut the wires to shorten them if so desired and you're adventurous…
  5. wire up the NEMA 14-50 pig-tail I linked from amazon (or similar from local hardware store) - 3 wires (2x120V wires Red/Black + ground Green - ignore the white wire - cap it off)
    1. inside the dock - there are three connecting points you can insert the wires from the top or the bottom
    2. connection is secured by tightening the connecting cylinder screws with the Tesla provide "bit" - tighter is better - you don't want these coming loose inside the unit
      1. make sure all "bare" wire is deep inside the connecting cylinders - no exposed bare wire above/below the cylinders to avoid any shorts during operation
  6. Mount the Wall charger to the dock once the wire's are secure and routed
    1. secure the Wall charger to the dock using the four mounting screws provided with the Wall unit - this secures the charger to the dock and seals the unit so all electrical stuff happens "inside" the wall unit/dock.
  7. everything should now be closed up…and secure
  8. Plug in the NEMA plug to your existing socket - it's been unplugged this entire time right? that makes it so that you won't electrocute yourself while wiring it up - since the plug is NOT plugged in and the BREAKER is off there is no chance of live power causing problems - DO NOT PLUG IN THE WIRE FROM AMAZON UNTIL EVERYTHING IS SEALED UP.
  9. If everything is closed up and secure - you can turn ON the breaker
    1. Tesla unit should power up
  10. using phone/tablet/notebook connect to unit's wifi hot spot (WiFi SSID name + password provided + QR Code on setup documentation)
  11. using a web-browser navigate to 192.168.92.1
  12. configure the unit to "join" your home wifi network
  13. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection
  14. run software update - rinse lather repeat until it says no more updates
  15. repeat step #10 since you'll lose the connection each time you reboot the unit after a software update
  16. adjust the units' power settings to 50 amp breaker/40 amp charge rate
  17. you're done.
below is a picture of the inside of a Tesla dock annotated with where each of the 3 wires will connect inside the dock - I think the picture should be self explanatory…the bare portion of each of the 3 wires should be entirely "inside" each of the connection cylinders no bare wire above/below/visible at the connection point - trim wire length as necessary to make this true - and then tighten the center screws to secure each of the wires - make sure the wires are NOT LOOSE after you tighten the center screws - pull/push on them hard and make sure they do not move - the "white" wire can just be sealed off and pushed aside inside the dock (electrical tape or wire nut is sufficient) - use zip ties to secure the wires inside the dock - and seal the entrance at the top/bottom of the dock using a standard electrical grommet clamp…

for the truly adventurous red/black and L1/L2/N doesn't matter - they are both 120V power sources and the dock doesn't care - the important one is to get the ground right - green must go to ground, but the other two wires are interchangeable since they are both simply 120V power…

IMG_2463.jpg
Sorry but out of an abundance of caution, would you mind to send a pic of this charger already installed against the wall with the NEMA plug shown in an outlet? Like the pic I posted earlier? Maybe you've done that and I missed it, but I've become an avid reader of your posts and pray to god you are a real person.
 

Hirschaj

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Sorry but out of an abundance of caution, would you mind to send a pic of this charger already installed against the wall with the NEMA plug shown in an outlet? Like the pic I posted earlier? Maybe you've done that and I missed it, but I've become an avid reader of your posts and pray to god you are a real person.
@daveo4EV is part AI, part human
 
 








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