What is your Taycan Range after X miles, Let's get some data

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@ciaranob , I think there was once a forum discussing the effect of frequency of charging to the degradation of the batter.
Now that I have my own Level 2 Charger at home, I am trying to decide whether to charge it often by only charging it to a lower % like using 60% as my target vs letting the % run down to 20% and then target out at 80%.
The reason I am thinking about this choice is that I have found that when the car is at higher %of charged (>65%), the % charge storage level seems to come down a lot faster. I would interpret that as a less efficient use of the electric energy at high % charged storage. So in that case, if I only charge it to 65%, the cost saving from energy used would be less. But that also would necessitate more frequent charging. I wonder if the increase charging events would hurt the battery degradation.
Do you have any insight into this?
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@ciaranob , I think there was once a forum discussing the effect of frequency of charging to the degradation of the batter.
Now that I have my own Level 2 Charger at home, I am trying to decide whether to charge it often by only charging it to a lower % like using 60% as my target vs letting the % run down to 20% and then target out at 80%.
The reason I am thinking about this choice is that I have found that when the car is at higher %of charged (>65%), the % charge storage level seems to come down a lot faster. I would interpret that as a less efficient use of the electric energy at high % charged storage. So in that case, if I only charge it to 65%, the cost saving from energy used would be less. But that also would necessitate more frequent charging. I wonder if the increase charging events would hurt the battery degradation.
Do you have any insight into this?
Fairly sure charging say from 20 to 65 vs 20 to 85 with every AC charge will make very little if any difference to the SoH - if anything as you are intimating it might actually be good for the battery.
These batteries do have a lifetime limit of charge cycles before significant SoH impact but usually refers to full 0-100% charge cycles - the 8 year warranty in respect a % Soh drop on year batteries also accounts for this (in respect expected levels of degradation), so again not something I would be overly concerned about. So yes I’d say charging to 65-70 Soc perfectly fine.
 

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I'm beginning to wonder if my 2022 Taycan battery is underperforming on range after 34K miles. I bought it 4 months ago with 31K miles on it from the dealer. It was a car ordered and operated by one of the sales-managers and appears was always charged to 100% at the dealership or the free 30 minute charging EA chargers. I get a max of 200 miles if I charge to 100% and 150 miles at 75%. This appears lower than it should be for a 2 year old car with 34K miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
 


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I'm beginning to wonder if my 2022 Taycan battery is underperforming on range after 34K miles. I bought it 4 months ago with 31K miles on it from the dealer. It was a car ordered and operated by one of the sales-managers and appears was always charged to 100% at the dealership or the free 30 minute charging EA chargers. I get a max of 200 miles if I charge to 100% and 150 miles at 75%. This appears lower than it should be for a 2 year old car with 34K miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Have your battery SOH checked. Then see if it is within the parameter for the warranty.

High-Voltage Battery Coverage


The Porsche Taycan high-voltage battery is covered against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 8 years/80,000 miles and against excessive loss of capacity, as defined below.


Excessive Loss of Capacity


If a capacity measurement performed at a Porsche authorized dealer shows, at the times specified below, that net battery capacity is less than the percentages specified below (the “Warranted Value”), any percentage that falls below the relevant Warranted Value constitutes “excessive loss of capacity”:


• 100% of net battery capacity on the date the car is first delivered to the first retail purchaser or the date it is first used as a demonstrator, lease, or company car, whichever comes first.
• 80% of net battery capacity within the first 3 years/37,500 miles, whichever occurs first.


  • 70% of net battery capacity within the first 8 years/80,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

There are two different metrics: Gross or Total Capacity is the total amount of energy the pack can theoretically hold. Net or Usable Capacity is the amount of energy the car can actually draw on to propel itself.
 


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Have your battery SOH checked. Then see if it is within the parameter for the warranty.

High-Voltage Battery Coverage


The Porsche Taycan high-voltage battery is covered against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 8 years/80,000 miles and against excessive loss of capacity, as defined below.


Excessive Loss of Capacity


If a capacity measurement performed at a Porsche authorized dealer shows, at the times specified below, that net battery capacity is less than the percentages specified below (the “Warranted Value”), any percentage that falls below the relevant Warranted Value constitutes “excessive loss of capacity”:


• 100% of net battery capacity on the date the car is first delivered to the first retail purchaser or the date it is first used as a demonstrator, lease, or company car, whichever comes first.
• 80% of net battery capacity within the first 3 years/37,500 miles, whichever occurs first.


  • 70% of net battery capacity within the first 8 years/80,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

There are two different metrics: Gross or Total Capacity is the total amount of energy the pack can theoretically hold. Net or Usable Capacity is the amount of energy the car can actually draw on to propel itself.
Thank you for your input which is very helpful.
I bought my 22 Taycan used with 31K miles from my Porsche dealer in Newport Beach/Costa Mesa. My warranty on the battery is 8 years from when it was first delivered new in January of 22 for 100,000 miles whichever comes first.
I'll never get to 100K miles by 2030 so it really means I'll have to watch for the battery capacity to drop too fast or suffer some of the failures which seem to be popping up more & more on these early models which has resulted in individual module replacements or the entire battery. By your numbers it looks like I'm still in range but if I get to 80% or below then I'll have to pay closer attention. Thanks.
 

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P ZERO 305/30 Z21
Performance summer tires on 21” rims aren’t going to yield the best range. Driving style will affect it greatly also. Trade offs.
 

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Performance summer tires on 21” rims aren’t going to yield the best range. Driving style will affect it greatly also. Trade offs.
Thanks, We drive very carefully. We don't push the car hard. My wife basically drives it around town with very little highway driving so I'm sure the fact we do mostly stop & go driving and on the highway briefly at times.
So does the car calibrate its range to the way we have been driving it for the last 3500 miles? We will only use it for a long trip to Las Vegas once or twice a year at the most and 4-6 trips to LA & back which is about 80-90 miles all highway per trip at 70mph to 75mph max.
 

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So does the car calibrate its range to the way we have been driving it for the last 3500 miles?
Yes, projected range is based on available energy and driving efficiency (which is based on many factors, including tires). Not any different than an ICE vehicle.
 

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TLDR: how you drive and the conditions you drive in will determine what you see for range.

So what is my range? Safe to say "it depends". I left Florida 3 weeks ago with a calculated range of 276 miles at 100%, just over 10,000 miles (real world 250-260 miles). Flat terrain, low 60's F, generally sane diving. Arrived in NJ, 1,100 miles later with a calculated range of 228 miles at 100%. So my range dropped by 17%. Drove mostly on Route 81 through the mountains of SC, NC and VA with steadily dropping temps at higher speeds than normal. I felt like I had a comfortable real world driving range of around 170 miles (can't realistically charge to 100% and certainly don't want to go below 15% given the charging infrastructure). But ... State of Health and battery capacity are essentially unchanged at 92.2% and 80 kWh, respectively (from Car Scanner). I'd love to panic and assume my battery is crapping out, or I've got a stuck brake caliper or, fill in your favorite Taycan malady, but I'm pretty sure it's the driving conditions and speed that are responsible for the reduced range being displayed. I'm assuming/hoping the displayed range will go back to my normal when temps go up and I'm not significantly over the posted speed limit. I will say that a usable range of 170 miles sucks as the conditions were not extreme. No rain or snow, no temps below freezing, no insane speeds. Hello Taycan .2 if the range improvement lives up to the advance billing. So just as with an ICE range varies.
 

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I'm beginning to wonder if my 2022 Taycan battery is underperforming on range after 34K miles. I bought it 4 months ago with 31K miles on it from the dealer. It was a car ordered and operated by one of the sales-managers and appears was always charged to 100% at the dealership or the free 30 minute charging EA chargers. I get a max of 200 miles if I charge to 100% and 150 miles at 75%. This appears lower than it should be for a 2 year old car with 34K miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hi Gino, in my experience there are two battery conditions that can cause low range (after eliminating controllable variables like tires/wheels, speed, attached accessories, and driving conditions). First, there is battery degradation that is even, and second there is uneven battery degradation where one or more failing cells restrict the capacity of the entire HV battery pack. My range was terrible since new, and it turns out I had one bad cell, which got worse suddenly, requiring a tow to the dealership to replace the entire HV battery pack at over 41,000 miles on the odometer. You can read more details about my experience here:
Bottom line: get an OBDII reader and view the cell map to see if you have a "time bomb" bad cell(s), or if you just have even degradation.
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