One more time: 85% Charging

[NormF]

Easy: you can go to 100% and to 1% whenever you NEED(!).
Keys:
- Do not let sit the battery over 85%. Use timer above it and start your trip ASAP.
- Do not let sit the battery below 20% for extended time, charge immediately at this stage if possible.
Proof: I frequently charge to 100% before longer road trips and discharging very often below 20% but keeping the above "keys" always. The result is 98,04% State of Health (SoH) of my battery after 13,000km. Believe me, this SoH is really good.

where are you getting these stats from?

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[Bognar67]

OBD reader + Car Scanner app

 

[WasserGKuehlt]

I don’t know what that is, as my MyPorsche app looks totally different.

That is the my.porsche.com portal (select vehicle, then on to charging etc.) - just another front end, like the app.

 

[W1NGE]

I don’t know what that is, as my MyPorsche app looks totally different.

The screenshot is from My Porsche website.

 

[W1NGE]

This is what I had last night and it charged 100% regardless,

Optimised charging is only relevant if you have grid and solar energy sources managed by a Home Energy Manager (HEM) which I'm assuming you don't. Don't enable it but do set preferred times as needed.

Please use the sample timer and profile previously provided and let us know how you get on.

Many people on the forum have experienced similar challenges and all have been resolved by adding a timer to control the end of charging.

Clearly there appears to be an anomaly with profiles which appears to work for some and not everyone. Next charge I do I'll use a profile in isolation and if it works for me I can conclude that the software has been changed without notification.

 

[Raphie]

I do have an energy manager, see the screenshots on page 1,
the energy manager talks to the cars, the cars start charging when tariff is lowest, don’t need to do anything other than desired departure time (if any) and minimum soc. (if desired) the energy manager does the rest.

 

[Raphie]

But it seems the app and car both have a different meaning of the word “active”
in my screenshot you see the lower part 2 profiles being “active“ (green) while on the top part it said one. After going in the car and checking the boxes it now shows correctly.
spot the differences:
so in order for it to be “really” active it should show both below the car and above the car.

 

[W1NGE]

But it seems the app and car both have a different meaning of the word “active”
in my screenshot you see the lower part 2 profiles being “active“ (green) while on the top part it said one. After going in the car and checking the boxes it now shows correctly.
spot the differences:
so in order for it to be “really” active it should show both below the car and above the car.

This thread is long I missed the HEM.

Perhaps this is part of the problem.

Depending on the config of the profiles they may also conflict. If noth are the same then shouldn't be an issue. Quite normal to have multiple active profiles and timers. I have 1 timer and 2 active location based profiles.

Any reason why you aren't using My Porsch App for management over the web portal?

 

[Raphie]

My porsche is on my iphone, web portal is iPad, more screen estate. It’s the same API, just another front ens.

 

[W1NGE]

My porsche is on my iphone, web portal is iPad, more screen estate. It’s the same API, just another front ens.

I know - familiar with both .

What profile configs did you have active?

 

[Dee]

Really simple would be like what Tesla has in terms of charging interface. My parents in their 70s figured it out instantly without ever reading a manual or going to forums.

German parents are different. ?

 

[Raphie]

I know - familiar with both .

What profile configs did you have active?

The app mirrored the portal status, both were in sync. As far as I can see it now, it’s a sync glitch between car and API that you just have to make sure the profile is green, but also activated above the car, if not dissable/enable again. I think that’s were I went wrong before.

 

[Dee]

I've been doing some reading about the issues of battery degradation, what causes it and what can be done to reduce it.

This U Michigan article is a decent read: Tips for extending the lifetime of lithium-ion batteries | University of Michigan News (umich.edu) it has the following helpful infographic.

There are two types of degradation that happen to lithium ion batteries, mechanical and chemical. The causes of degradation comes down to combinations of battery temperature, battery charge state, and battery charge rate, all over time.

The batteries work by shuttling lithium ions from the cathode to the anode and back. When they're moving from the cathode to the anode it's discharging and going the other direction it's charging.

The goal is the lithium ions move into the electrodes (cathode and anode are electrodes that have a specific charge) and fill them somewhat like a sponge. This is where high states of charge and low states of charge can cause mechanical damage. At 100% charge, the cathode is full to bursting and at 0% charge the anode is. This can cause the material making up the electrodes to be physically damaged reducing the amount of lithium they can hold. Heat can increase the amount of damage done.

Over-voltage and over-amperage during charging can cause the same sort of issues. Think of the cathode as a plane during boarding or a stadium with people filing in before an event. When they are empty you can move people in fairly quickly, as it fills the number of new people that can enter per minute goes down. If you try to force them in faster they're going to start bumping into things and potentially causing damage. Temperature impacts this too, moving the ions from the anode to the cathode is a physical chemical process. Cold slows down the process and trying to charge faster than the chemistry can happen damages the battery. Too much heat can also cause damage. 270KW charging requires sort of Goldilocks conditions not too hot, not too cold, not too empty and not too full. But even when the conditions are perfect minor damage is occurring.

You can't get over-voltage during discharge, but you can get excessive current. 761 horsepower is 567KW. that's what the Turbo S is drawing from the battery momentarily during launch control acceleration. Is it causing degradation. Yes. Is it worth it? Yes.

Just in general, at higher temperatures the lithium can start to bind to other things in the battery like the casing or the material between the cathode and anode degrading capacity.

The nice thing is, the car does an excellent job of managing most of these issues itself. It keeps the battery temperature in a comfortable range and it controls the rate of charging/discharging. It even hides the true 100% and 0% charge states preventing the worst case charge state scenarios.

The practical upshot for us as owners is that the battery is happiest when it's not too empty and not too full. The rate of degradation between 20% and 80% state of charge is low, but then is starts to shoot up rapidly below 20% or above 80%. I assume 50% is the sweet spot because that's what Porsche recommends for long term storage. If you wanted to do the battery longevity equivalent of hypermiling you'd work out your typical daily consumption and charge every day with the intent of keeping it as close to 50% as possible over the course of your typical day while storing it in a cool location when not in use. Ten 45% - 55% -45% charge discharge cycles is not the same as one 0% - 100% - 0% cycle. The degradation from the ten smaller cycles is significantly less.

There's no need to be obsessive about it, it's a car, a tool, that will eventually wear out, but it's easy enough to avoid intentionally creating scenarios where the battery degrades. At least if you have at home charging that is.

Perhaps at some point Porsche can create an Inno-charge feature that monitors usage and charging habits and adjusts the target charge state based on typical daily usage.

(Sorry about the long post, I spend 25 years as a technical trainer and my job was to learn the technical stuff then communicate it to non-technical people. Thats why I tried to handwave it without using phrases like redox reaction, electrostatic repulsion, or electrolyte while still keeping it reasonably accurate.)

Nice story but people forget the battery discharges heavily when accelerating or driving at relatively high speeds too.
High amps will still flow, even if you drive on the highway at a constant pace.
Remember, you charge a battery to full in, let's say 8 hours (from ~20% SoC) on a low amp (11kW) but when driving for 2 hours at 130-150km/h your battery is empty (at ~20% SoC), so your discharge rate is 4 times the rate of charging, which is 44kW, sounds like fast(dis)charging to me anyway...
Ergo: enjoy the car and don't worry about the battery, it's not why you bought a Porsche for in the first place.

Disclaimer: don't mind the numbers, it's just to explain the principle of amp flow.

 

[W1NGE]

The app mirrored the portal status, both were in sync. As far as I can see it now, it’s a sync glitch between car and API that you just have to make sure the profile is green, but also activated above the car, if not dissable/enable again. I think that’s were I went wrong before.

Ok so that's not the 85% issue I guess.

Either HEM related programming conflict or you just wave the white flag and add a timer.

 

[eddy ted]

Glad I'm not the only one thought I had an issue.

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