Taycan Dead After Vacation

[Tooney]

Is it just me, or is it insane that these minor bugs and best practices for changing haven't been fixed and communicated to the owners? How can a company like Porsche not figure out how to charge a 12V battery properly from an HV battery?

My 1st gen 2012 Tesla didn't have any of these types of problems.

Somebody at HQ needs to hire a proper software development leader/team and empower them to fix some of these bugs, OTA update them and communicate with customers.

If they don't fix these issues before the release of the Macan EV, they will be in for some serious trouble.

I agree with you about the need for Porsche to up its EV game.

I don't think the people I see around here driving Macan SUVs are going to be as patient with/put up with/suffer willingly (as long as they get a nice loaner) with the problems and lack of driver user information and instructions that Taycan owners have experienced and are still experiencing after five model years.

Most vehicle owners don't want to have to join owner forums and read manufacturer TSBs to keep on top of what is happening with their cars.

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[ShiftyWolf]

Moved my response from the other thread:

What the...?!?!

Good grief. Between this thread and learning the 12v Li-ion battery is north of $1,500 to replace I can understand the depreciation.

My next EV will involve a lot more research and survey before making a purchase.

Just throwing it out there, under typical use the 12V should last many years before needing to be replaced although $1500 is still crazy expensive.

For apples to oranges anecdotal information only, my wife's lithium 12V battery in her Q5 is still going strong after nearly 8 years. The chemistry and engineers moving the battery out of the engine compartment seems to have worked wonders for its longevity.

I also got sucked into the Taycan by its looks without doing my full due diligence. I explored as much as I could within a week before buying but am putting a lot of faith in the brand itself. So far, so good.

 

[aljparker108]

Left the 2020 Taycan Turbo at 85% charge for 4 weeks and came back to a completely dead car. Had to use mechanical key to unlock door. Tried opening charge port with manual cord but that didn’t work as I have the electric charge doors. Appears everything locks when the battery goes dead…..including the door if you close it again.

long and short flatbed coming to take to dealership. Will let you know how it goes. Roadside assistance says they don’t do the jump box solution.

Had this many times in the UK. Porsche were useless with information but AA told me Li-on battery will not last more than 2 weeks you need to leave the vehicle on charge whilst away or you'll have an issue every time. My Taycan Turbo just returned after 8 months off the road will be sold this week!

 

[Scandinavian]

Had this many times in the UK. Porsche were useless with information but AA told me Li-on battery will not last more than 2 weeks you need to leave the vehicle on charge whilst away or you'll have an issue every time. My Taycan Turbo just returned after 8 months off the road will be sold this week!

Sorry to hear that your Taycan has been out of operation for such a long time. Fully understand that you will sell the car when you get it back.

But your AA guy had no clue about what he was talking about!

I have left my Taycan for 6 week s and for 8 weeks without any problems at airport parking. No issue at all. The key is that you do not check on the car with the app at all. The phantom drain is extremely low and the 12 volt battery lasts a long time. Just for safety you can easily keep a booster battery in the passenger compartment and open the frunk and boost the 12 volt, if needed. Looks a bit awkward at airport parking but works just fine.

And any good recovery agent will have a booster to get some life into an EV with a 12 volt battery. That is the way they do the recovery if needed on a flatbed!

 

[Pjjameso]

After being delivered to dealer and checked out they said the 12V battery was fine and no clue as to why car died…. Purchased Ctek Lithium US charger and plan to leave connected when on future trips.

Dealer performed updates WPN9 and WPS9. Doubt those had anything to do with dead car.

The shocking expense was the 20,000 service cost of 1511.64. That has to be a complete rip off with parts of 219.64

 

[Tooney]

After being delivered to dealer and checked out they said the 12V battery was fine and no clue as to why car died…. Purchased Ctek Lithium US charger and plan to leave connected when on future trips.

Dealer performed updates WPN9 and WPS9. Doubt those had anything to do with dead car.

The shocking expense was the 20,000 service cost of 1511.64. That has to be a complete rip off with parts of 219.64

When you left the car unused for four weeks, did you use the MyPorsche app/Porsche website to remote into the car to check on it during that time? Thought is that if the car keeps waking up to communicate with app, battery gets depleted.
Were the key fobs for the car out of range of the car while it was stored?

 

[Pjjameso]

Never checked on car with app, left it at 85% picked up from dealer at 70. Assume they didn’t charge the car. Key fobs were locked in metal safe away from car. Only thing i could have done perhaps is lock it, didnt do that as mirrors were still extended.

 

[simcity]

Ughh. I've just had to go through this, after the having the car sat for ages. Used the emergency key to get into the car, then pulled/popped off the cover off the front of the fuse block in the drivers side footwell/A-pillar. Then used an old motorbike 12V battery with some alligators to provide power between the emergency 12v pullout in the fuse block and door strike so I could pop open the bonnet/hood to get to the main 12V battery terminals to get the thing fully alive / give it a jump start / close the main HV contactor(s) etc.

In future I'll keep a NOCO GB20 (the smallest booster I think they do) in the frunk compartment for the actual jumping / boosting function.

However in terms of keeping something a bit more easily pocket-sized that provide just enough 12V goodness to get the bonnet/hood open - does anyone know how much power is required on the emergency 12V connector / door strike? Was thinking of being able to use a little power bank with USB-C PD function to give 12VDC output. The Mophie one I have will output around 1.7 to 2A (24 watts) - just wondering if that's going to be enough poke to get the circuits alive / pop open the hood/bonnet???

 

[figure1a]

Ughh. I've just had to go through this, after the having the car sat for ages. Used the emergency key to get into the car, then pulled/popped off the cover off the front of the fuse block in the drivers side footwell/A-pillar. Then used an old motorbike 12V battery with some alligators to provide power between the emergency 12v pullout in the fuse block and door strike so I could pop open the bonnet/hood to get to the main 12V battery terminals to get the thing fully alive / give it a jump start / close the main HV contactor(s) etc.

In future I'll keep a NOCO GB20 (the smallest booster I think they do) in the frunk compartment for the actual jumping / boosting function.

However in terms of keeping something a bit more easily pocket-sized that provide just enough 12V goodness to get the bonnet/hood open - does anyone know how much power is required on the emergency 12V connector / door strike? Was thinking of being able to use a little power bank with USB-C PD function to give 12VDC output. The Mophie one I have will output around 1.7 to 2A (24 watts) - just wondering if that's going to be enough poke to get the circuits alive / pop open the hood/bonnet???

You might want to put that jumper in the glove box since you won't be able to get into the frunk until you have jumper on the fuse box battery points.

 

[simcity]

You might want to put that jumper in the glove box since you won't be able to get into the frunk until you have jumper on the fuse box battery points.

I'll check to see if it fits with it's case etc, but might be a bit chunky to fit in the glovebox inside the case / or find somewhere else to stash it in the cabin:

Hence my question on the smallest 12V 'pocket-able' power source I can get away with....

 

[figure1a]

I'll check to see if it fits with it's case etc, but might be a bit chunky to fit in the glovebox inside the case / or find somewhere else to stash it in the cabin:

Hence my question on the smallest 12V 'pocket-able' power source I can get away with....

I have/fit the NOCO Boost XL GB50 in my glovebox.

 

[simcity]

Borrowed a power bank, and used a USB-C PD lead (12V output up to 5A) with the alligators on the end of it. This should do the trick - enough poke to be able to pop open the bonnet/hood....not to jump it off course.

I can't get the NOCO GB20 in the glovebox here. Don't know if our RHD cars have waaaay smaller glove boxes than LHD cars, or I'm just not ramming it enough ?

 

[figure1a]

Borrowed a power bank, and used a USB-C PD lead (12V output up to 5A) with the alligators on the end of it. This should do the trick - enough poke to be able to pop open the bonnet/hood....not to jump it off course.

I can't get the NOCO GB20 in the glovebox here. Don't know if our RHD cars have waaaay smaller glove boxes than LHD cars, or I'm just not ramming it enough ?

There are different "levels" in the glove box that you have to negotiate to get it in there. Pretty sure the GB50 that I have is bigger than the GB20 that you have.

Your power bank solution may not get you very far. After using the GB20 to get the frunk to open, you are going to have to charge the 12V battery enough to get it operational if you want to continue on with whatever recovery you are tasked with. I don't think that little power bank is going to do the trick.

 

[eddieterry]

Use the power bank to open frunk and keep Noco in frunk to boost 12 Volt. It should only be necessary very occasionally as the software usually keeps the 12 Volt charged by the big battery but occasionally it can get caught out particularly when very cold (the software is not foolproof although some members think it is). Only had a problem once in two years.

 

[simcity]

Use the power bank to open frunk and keep Noco in frunk to boost 12 Volt. It should only be necessary very occasionally as the software usually keeps the 12 Volt charged by the big battery but occasionally it can get caught out particularly when very cold (the software is not foolproof although some members think it is). Only had a problem once in two years.

That what I’m thinking. First time for me too in 2 years. The NOCO did the trick boosting the 12v back to life and supplying enough juice for the main contactor to then close and start the recharging process from the 800v battery. Though I have left a lithium-specific CTEK maintenance charger on it for a few days too.

Goes to Porsche Colchester on Thursday for its 2-year service and the latest slew of recalls. I’ve never had a car with so many blinking recalls in such a short space of time.

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