Anyone tune their BASE RWD model with Redshift Performance?

[prj]

which will be hardly noticeable I think.

It is objectively better and makes more power for 2.5 seconds in most cases, which is enough to pass.
You get a 5.9% improvement in acceleration performance.

Isn't the point of tuning to get the best possible result?

Sponsored

 

[Gru]

Thinking this still makes a difference
How is the overall feeling? Do you feel a noticeable difference and think it was worth it?
Also did you do the unfiltered response thing?

it doesn't from standstill, in terms of time or feeling.

I briefly mentioned that in the post: it depends how you drive it.

I do long trips on highways or national roads: I drive it like a Porsche, I do not try to extend the range between 2 charging stations. So yes, I do feel the difference. Worth ? in terms of $ ? well, you have the perf. of a 4S (except from 0-xx) for that price.

No, I haven't pick the unfiltered response. I was told it can be a bit shaky when driving downtown, which I do a lot too.

 

[freeforall]

@Gru thanks a lot for plotting those graphs. Very helpful. It confirms that @prj was 100% right.

About this one:

2/ 0 - xx km/h:

These runs were made different on different days, different weather, almost similar SoC (but not identical) so the values are not to be taken as the best one can obtain.

Would you have the same graph with the curve for "Stock Sport+ without LC"?
If the curve is way lower without LC, I understand why people who tuned the RWD has the feeling of a more powerful car. The reality is that LC is not used very often in the day to day and can only be used from a stopped position. Sometimes you just want to hit the accelerator and get the power and this, not necessarily from a stopped position...

 

[Gru]

no, I don't think I have (I'll double check).
but it it shouldn't be very different from stock Normal, in fact it should be identical: torque curves are identical. (Prj could confirm)

I think I plotted the stock Normal in the other discussion (the "neardy" one).

edit: that one.
actually Normal and Sport+ non_LC were identical and I plotted only Normal

 

[prj]

No, I haven't pick the unfiltered response. I was told it can be a bit shaky when driving downtown, which I do a lot too.

And this is one more reason to tune it correctly, and only enable it at high torque gradient, so it does not compromise day to day drivability. But that requires some work... and the factory documentation. Which probably most don't have.

Factory function. Not a hack, like everyone else

no, I don't think I have (I'll double check).
but it it shouldn't be very different from stock Normal, in fact it should be identical: torque curves are identical. (Prj could confirm)

Confirmed

 

[prj]

Btw it is completely possible to calibrate the software to have different torque/power in different modes.

But I think quite pointless really. Just press the pedal less?

 

[chun]

Btw it is completely possible to calibrate the software to have different torque/power in different modes.

But I think quite pointless really. Just press the pedal less?

I disagree; when I know I want to drive the car like a porsche, I put it in sport+ and that’s when I expect max power and max everything.

That also usually comes with extra battery consumption.

If I want to drive while watching my consumption, I wouldn’t really need full power.

And sometimes power doesn’t necessarily mean comfort, so in normal mode I wouldn’t want that extra power - for when driving with people that get sick; or with kids or with any other person you wouldn’t want to take risks with.

my 2 cents

So if the option would be there to have normal mode not get the increased power & torque, I would take it. All the other modes can have it, but normal shouldn’t.

But that’s just my opinion.

Hopefully some reviews from happy consumers will come soon ?

 

[prj]

I disagree; when I know I want to drive the car like a porsche, I put it in sport+ and that’s when I expect max power and max everything.

That also usually comes with extra battery consumption.

This is common misconception, there is no increased consumption if you don't floor it.

And sometimes power doesn’t necessarily mean comfort, so in normal mode I wouldn’t want that extra power - for when driving with people that get sick; or with kids or with any other person you wouldn’t want to take risks with.

Then don't push the pedal all the way.

So if the option would be there to have normal mode not get the increased power & torque, I would take it. All the other modes can have it, but normal shouldn’t.

Possible to do of course. But then it's possible to also limit the peak power even more - you can program any torque curve you want, so a bit complex.

 

[Avantgarde]

This is common misconception, there is no increased consumption if you don't floor it.


Then don't push the pedal all the way.


Possible to do of course. But then it's possible to also limit the peak power even more - you can program any torque curve you want, so a bit complex.

Is it simpler to have the same tuned torque/power curve in all modes, but maybe just enable your custom torque filtering elimination only in sport mode?

 

[prj]

Is it simpler to have the same tuned torque/power curve in all modes, but maybe just enable your custom torque filtering elimination only in sport mode?

Torque filtering can be set based on mode, but for THAT there is absolutely no point. Because I don't do a dumb hack that just turns it all off. There is no benefit from turning it off completely over doing it through the correct function, it just makes the car drive like crap when you're trying to drive it normally.

The driver request filter bypass activates only with significant pedal input and only if the powertrain has some forward torque on it already. You have to move the pedal more than 40-50% in a short time.

Having it locked away behind modes defeats the purpose.

 

[Avantgarde]

Torque filtering can be set based on mode, but for THAT there is absolutely no point. Because I don't do a dumb hack that just turns it all off. There is no benefit from turning it off completely over doing it through the correct function, it just makes the car drive like crap when you're trying to drive it normally.

The driver request filter bypass activates only with significant pedal input and only if the powertrain has some forward torque on it already. You have to move the pedal more than 40-50% in a short time.

Having it locked away behind modes defeats the purpose.

OK trust you. Sounds like you studied this well. I like the filter by pass on pre-tensioned contdition only. (fits very well to my driving style, even driving an ICE I don't suddenly slam pedal from nothing, feels like an abuse of the powertrain). I will get your product.

 

[Emokeff88]

My daily drive has a bad tire so I drove the Taycan to work today and pulled a few stats... As mentioned just to double tap, it looks like torque is locked in & 341. I left this morning at 100% SoC and did some good low traffic pulls. Unfortunately the data captured was not the Dashboard mode as I never clicked it. On the way home I made sure I was in dashboard mode at around 83% SoC. Take this with a grain of salt, this is my driving in afternoon work traffic, doing short pulls. I'll get to that 570hp I saw in the past eventually.. (maybe more?). You guys are the experts though, I'll let you interpret all this. If the weather is good this weekend I'll try for real.

 

[prj]

I'll get to that 570hp I saw in the past eventually.. (maybe more?).

1. Battery power is not motive power. Battery power draw is significantly higher, the powertrain is nowhere close to 100% efficient.
2. Nothing in the ECU shows a such parameter (power in hp). This means someone made that parameter up on the spot (including the scaling for it). The controller shows battery draw in kW, but again this is not motive power.
3. Your torque is not 341, the scaling in your app is wrong. 340 is the max it can ever run out of LC. Small difference, but still...
4. This is exactly what I mean by using toys for logging instead of real tools.

 

[Emokeff88]

1. Battery power is not motive power. Battery power draw is significantly higher, the powertrain is nowhere close to 100% efficient.
2. Nothing in the ECU shows a such parameter (power in hp). This means someone made that parameter up on the spot. The controller shows battery draw in kW, but again this is not motive power.
3. This is exactly what I mean by using toys for logging instead of real tools.

Again....didn't say I was the expert, do with this information what you will

 

[prj]

Again....didn't say I was the expert, do with this information what you will

You don't have to be.
You said:

I'll let you interpret all this.

And I did just that.

What you provided matches what was provided earlier here, and also the curve that is in Part 2

Sponsored